August 4-5
Hello everyone!
Malawi may be a small country but weekend trips from
Lilongwe can initially seem few and far between. With a bit of research (and a
4x4 vehicle), however, there are some hidden gems which may not get the same
levels of attention as the country’s main attraction of its eponymous lake.
Ntchisi is one of those.
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| Nitchisi Forest Reserve |
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| The garden in Ntchisi Forest Lodge - on a clear day you can see the lake |
Ntchisi is home to the only rainforest in southern Africa.
That’s not a misprint. Rainforest. In a country where it doesn’t rain for eight
months of the year.
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| Water!! |
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| The difference in colour is stark |
Don’t picture the Amazon at this point. It is scientifically
called an ‘African montane rainforest’, meaning that it is capable of creating
its own moisture. It isn’t your stereotypical rainforest in that it can’t
create clouds to control its climate.
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| Hiking through the rainforest is quite an adventure |
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| Long, thin vines hanging from the trees |
What it is in this small rainforest area is green. Vividly
green. There isn’t much of the rainforest – recent measurements have its area
as 2.5km2 – but it is eerily silent and obviously beautiful.
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| Gnarled branches blocking the trail were quite common |
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| Many plants that grow here will not be found elsewhere in Malawi |
Surrounding this area is a much larger tract of Miombo
woodland. You have to walk through this forest to get to the rainforest, and
much of it is a delightful hike. The vast majority of it is silent, save for
the crunching of foot over leaves and branches and the occasional chirping of a
bird or slithering of a land creature.
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| It can be hard to know the 'border' between rainforest and woodland |
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| The views from up high were incredible |
The vast majority. Not all, unfortunately. The other sound
which sometimes pierces the tranquillity is that of an electric saw.
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| A sawing machine which has clearly been hard at work |
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| Workers working to create a clearing |
The hiking paths actually take you straight through the
heart of a major problem in Malawi: deforestation. Trees are being chopped down
in every direction.
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| Government statistics suggest forest areas are depleting by 2.6% annually |
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| The main reason is for deforestation is charcoal production |
It can be a scene of devastation at times, which is
heart-breaking as we all know the importance of forests and trees for our
long-term future and sustainability. The managers of the lodge I camped at
suggested that a long-term vision doesn’t seem to be in place, and replanting
of trees isn’t happening nearly enough to compensate for this plundering of the
forest. Having been to a forest further north in Luwawa, I know that Ntchisi’s
forest is not the only one being destroyed in the country.
The forest that currently exists in Ntchisi is beautiful, a
world away from Lilongwe but less than a two hour drive. The views, particularly
at sunset, are stunning.
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| View from Sunset Rock |
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| The big red ball just missed the tree on the horizon |
I say two hours. That’s if you follow the proper directions
given by friends and the lodge’s website. Let this be a lesson for anyone who
intends to drive around Malawi – don’t use Google Maps!
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| When I drove, this was shown to be the quickest route |
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Most of the roads were very dusty - the lodge decided
my car was so filthy that it needed a wash! |
Ntchisi has a lovely forest and is a great weekend getaway
from Lilongwe. An area of peace and tranquillity – we just have to hope that
the deforestation is decelerated so people and wildlife can continue to enjoy
this unique spot in the region.
Love you all,
Matt
