Wednesday, 9 July 2014

England - A tale of two cities





England – A tale of two cities

July 7-9

Hello everyone!

We’ve spent the last week visiting two cities in England: Manchester and Birmingham. Two places which will rarely be seen by tourists, be them domestic or from more exotic destinations. Two places which, unless you have an affinity to them for a particular reason, you wouldn't generally put in your must-see list when talking about the delights of the United Kingdom. Yet one has hidden gems which are indeed worth your time. As you read on I'll sure you'll discover which of these northern lights is worth your time.






Both cities (and others, especially if you live in Yorkshire) claim to be England’s ‘second city’. Both have been historically important in their own ways. Both are now large, ethnically diverse cities with large shopping complexes full of generic and global brands dominating their centres.




Whilst Birmingham was a new experience for me, I already have plenty of affection and time for Manchester. The simple reasons for that are that I went to university in Manchester and spent three fantastic years living in its vibrant and colourful locale. One of my chosen football teams also hail from the region. This is not the time to get into the age-old debate of whether Manchester United are from Manchester; the team are certainly closer to Manchester than Birmingham.




The reason for returning to the land which, according to t-shirts, God Himself created on the sixth day was the same as my previous visit three years ago: to see my little sister. She was graduating, you see. Clever girl. The grandeur of Whitworth Hall (which I had been in twice before: once to enrol and once to graduate, and not a single time in between) was the setting for her entry into the real world.




To celebrate, we half-scaled Manchester’s tallest building: the Hilton hotel. Halfway up, on floor 23, is a bar from which you can take in all of the city’s…umm…splendour. Whilst not the most stunning view you’ll ever gaze upon, it is nonetheless a nice place in which to toast a job well done. Just don’t do this with a bizarre cocktail called a Black Berry Smog, which was inexplicably recommended to me by the waiter. It smelt of a burning chimney. The worst thing is that it was supposed to. Whether it was supposed to resemble that in your mouth is another question entirely.


Partly due to my increasing irritation with seeing the same shops on remarkably similar high streets across the UK, one of my favourite places in Manchester is a building called Affleck’s Palace. It is an old four-floor structure bursting with strange, eclectic shops at every turn. You even have to walk through some shops to get to others, yet they seem to work in perfect harmony to one another. It is the world of the alternative: T-shirts with messages so explicit that even Primark wouldn't dare allow their Bangladeshi army to make them; tattoo parlours displaying magical, intricate artworks. It is a breath of fresh air compared to central Manchester’s main shopping district, the Arndale.



Manchester is also home to the Museum of Science and Industry. This place is a child’s dream. Wonderfully interactive and informative, the top floor hosts a variety of experiments which bamboozle schools and adults alike. We were particularly fond of the challenge demonstrated so woefully below, which affects your movement with mirrors.




As for Birmingham…even after visiting, I don’t have much to say about the place. It may be due to the fact that most of its attractions are art museums, a topic which struggles to interest me even in my rare, culture-hungry moments. We enjoyed a curry (south Birmingham is apparently home to the ‘balti’ dish) with an enormous jug of mango lassi, and spent time relaxing in a park near the Edgbaston cricket ground. Yet in the centre of Birmingham itself, there seemed to be little to occupy a visitor which couldn't be done elsewhere. Namely, Manchester.




In sum, two major cities north of the M25. One of them is worth your time. The other one is Birmingham.





Love you all


Matt

Thursday, 3 July 2014

France – A first class Parisian adventure

July 3-4

Bonjour!

Many people more famous and respected than I have great things to say about our next destination. Here are just a few:

Oscar Wilde: When good Americans die, they go to Paris.


Audrey Hepburn: Paris is always a good idea.


Friedrich Nietzsche: An artist has no home in Europe except in Paris.


Why so popular? We had less than 24 hours to find out.


I have been to Paris before, though not since I was a boy of 6 or 7. Since that time, Paris has hosted a World Cup, had openly gay and female mayors, unsuccessfully bid for the 2012 Olympics and been the location of innumerable strikes and other demonstrations.




Many of the reasons for visiting, however, have stayed the same. Monuments such as the Arc de Triomphe and the Notre Dame cathedral…




The Eiffel tower…




…and many others.  But you already know about these places; you’re aware that they are worth seeing, and will be surrounded by tourists. What else does Paris have to offer which makes people swoon over it so lovingly?


Paris may host a full platter of monuments, but it is also a foodie’s feast. We spent a while ambling aimlessly around Rue Mouffetard, stomachs churning with the variety and quality of food on offer. I was particularly enamoured with the fromagerie; the owner cheerfully informed me that they stock over 160 varieties of cheese. If only we had access to a fridge, I would have left this place with fewer Euros and a large, cheesy grin. I instead opted for a more than adequate replacement in the form of a coffee éclair, which was exquisitely wrapped. It was almost a shame to rip the packaging apart to savour the thick coffee cream inside.





 



We ate this in a garden which was swarming with locals on this scorchingly hot day: Jardin du Luxembourg. Interestingly, it was one of the few places we went to where the predominant language seemed to be French. Irrespective of the incredible number of foreign tourists, the notion of French people refusing to speak English seems to be a misguided stereotype.




Another common stereotype is that Parisians aren’t the warmest and most hospitable of hosts; again, I found this idea to be flawed after our journey home. Whilst waiting for our Eurostar train to return us to London, a smiling official from the company approached us. Do you like football, he asked. Are you aware of the World Cup, he continued. Finally, he got to the aim of his conversation. Would you like to enter a keepy-uppy competition?



If you’re into life lessons, I’ll offer you one right now: always say yes. There’s a film about that. I said ‘oui’ and, with partner in crime, was soon involved in a competition of keeping a football off the floor in the entrance to the Eurostar platform in Paris’ main train station. Though comprehensively outdone by Hannah (she got 16, I got 6: I had bad shoes), we still outscored our Italian opposition. Our prize? A football.




We’ll put it to good use. However Hassane, the gentleman who had a boyish enthusiasm for fun and football, informed us that ‘we were all winners’…and had all been promoted to first class for our journey to London. Lovely. Cannot complain at all! They also possibly were taking pity on my attempt at being French by not shaving: not necessarily an inappropriate stereotype, but I agree that I looked unkempt and pretty awful.




Brazilian culture has been a recurring theme throughout our French escapade. From delaying the take-off of our flight to Paris to watch a Brazilian penalty shoot-out to witnessing a capoeira session under the Eiffel tower, Brazil’s main passions have been on show in Paris. Football fever has certainly been evident. The upgrade to first-class from playing in a keepy-uppy tournament in Gare du Nord is the cherry on top of a very enjoyable slice of French pie.







Love you all


Matt

France - Holy gîte!

June 29 – July 02

Bonjour!

Hello summer! Yes, it’s that time of year when teachers get to escape from their working lives for the best part of two months. I won’t bang on about that fact too much; I know many people who are reading this are cooped up in offices, longing for the chance to be outside rather than gazing longingly at the sunshine through a double-glazed window.



We’re kicking off our summer in a tranquil region of northern France. The nearest town of note is the rustic port of Honfleur on the Norman coast. We were staying approximately five kilometres inland from this village, in a gîte in the lush, green countryside. Spotting people along our lane was a rare occurrence; we were more likely to see horses and donkeys.






This was very much a retreat from the urban landscape which we have been situated in for the past year. Aside from a good internet connection, which allowed us to keep in touch with the World Cup and Wimbledon, our gite was hidden away from civilisation.




This is not to say that we completely isolated ourselves during this French sojourn. It would have been a missed opportunity to watch the France game in private, so we observed Les Bleus (whilst secretly rooting for Nigeria as they were one of my sweepstakes teams) as they struggled through their second round match. Possibly due to the location in the port of Honfleur, possibly due to the relatively early start of 6pm, possibly due to the older, middle-class crowd accompanying us, it was eerily quiet throughout their laborious 2-0 win over the African side.




Whilst watching the game we treated ourselves to a French beer (treated is the word: at €7.80, I’ve never drank a beer so slowly), and later sampled some traditional seaside cuisine from the region. Essentially, a very large bucket of mussels. We also tried a delectable crème brulee which was drowning in caramel sauce. Sometimes it’s good to have such a long walk home!




Lots of time was spent walking, but we hired bikes to travel across the Seine River to the larger town of Le Havre. This involved crossing the colossal eyesore that dominates the skyline in this area: Pont du Normandie. On a scorching morning, we set off from Honfleur to the other side of the river. It was slightly irritating to walk 5km into town, only to cycle back along much of that route.




People who know me will be aware that I’m not the most confident soul when it comes to moving on two wheels. The deceptively steep bridge was thus a bit of a biking Everest to me. There was a cycling lane on the bridge…which seemed as narrow as the wheels on my clunking, metallic machine. Luckily, roadworks reduced traffic to one lane, meaning I had a wide berth to wobble and grunt up to the apex of the bridge. Zipping down the other side was a great reward for the lactic acid pooling in my hamstrings from the climb.




Prior research suggested to us that there was a cycle route all the way to Le Havre. Having spent more than enough time almost being blown off the bike by lorries and trucks zipping along right next to me, I can assure you that no such continuous route exists. Nonetheless, we made it through to the industrial, manufacturing eyesore pleasant seaside town that is Le Havre.



What we saw of the town itself was nice; a small, modern marina area which played host to some wakeboarders. However, the length of time we had to spend travelling through the industrial section of the town in order to reach the marina led us to being fairly unimpressed with Le Havre. Honfleur, on the other hand, is a very pretty little village, though clearly after the tourist euro. 




Normandy has been a nice place to relax and recharge our batteries after a long summer term. Next stop is France’s grande ville – Paris.



Love you all,


Matt