Hello everyone!
My long train ride dropped me in the eastern – well,
relatively eastern, though still nowhere near Russia’s eastern coastline – city
of Yekaterinburg (the city's name can be spelt with a Y or without), Russia’s fourth largest city and one which has been the host
of some interesting and important events in history.
Japanese fans in costume outside the Ekaterinburg Arena |
It was here, for example, that the final royal family of
Russia was executed. Tsar Nicholas II was removed from being Russia’s leader in
1917 but this wasn’t enough for the communist government which took control
later in the year. Nicholas’ family were imprisoned in a house in this city,
over 2,000 kilometres from their previous home in the Winter Palace in St
Petersburg, in 1918.
The Romanov family, as well as some other sympathisers, were
assassinated in the middle of July in 1918. Initially the new government denied
the execution of the other family members and their remains were only
discovered in 1989. The rather long-winded Church-on-the-Blood
in the name of All Saints Shone Forth in the Land of Russia (and breathe) was
built on the site of the murders in 2003 as a memorial.
As well as this dark moment of Russian history,
Yekaterinburg also seems to be home to a bit of wealth. Skyscrapers and
futuristic buildings are rising from the banks of the Iset River.
One of the stranger buildings is their stadium, which is
hosting four World Cup group matches. Stadia used in the FIFA tournament have
to have a minimum capacity, which the Ekaterinburg Arena didn’t meet. Until
they did this…
The FIFA picture of the stadium, which was opened in 1957 |
What you see at each end are stands which soar to 45 metres
tall…outside the walls of the arena.
These stands are temporary and will be removed after the tournament has
finished, allowing the local team to play in a smaller arena which costs less
to maintain.
One of the main concerns was that the view at the top of the
stand would be blocked. Luckily for me, I was just over halfway up one of these
wedges and had a great view of a very entertaining match between Senegal and
Japan.
Though being relatively far from other World Cup venues,
football fever is noticeable in Yekaterinburg. I also noticed that not a single
Russian cheered when England scored their goals against Panama. Maybe the
political tension is still in the undercurrent…
Locals were desperate to have photos with fans from Senegal, which I found very interesting given the media focus on racism before the tournament |
This tired young man had plenty of nicer places to sleep
than a coffee shop. Yekaterinburg is a pretty city with plenty of parks and
fountains.
Fountains in the Plotnika area of Yekaterinburg |
If he had stayed awake, he could have seen one of the
stranger monuments I’ve seen – the QWERTY monument. A monument to…a computer
keyboard. Children saw them less as a monument and more of a playground.
As the sun set on my final night in Russia, I watched the fountains dance and people mill about, enjoying their summer. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time in the world’s largest country and hope that the warmth and openness I’ve experienced during the World Cup stays long after the football departs. Whatever your view on the politics of the country, the vast majority of its citizens are wonderful and I’ve cherished sharing their country with them.
Love you all,
Matt
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