Iceland - Hot Tubbing

June 23-24

Hello everyone!

Iceland lived up to its name in the previous blog, when I was standing on top of a frozen glacier. This edition goes a bit deeper into the Earth and finds that the country is actually quite...warm…

Myvatn Nature Baths

Selfoss

Quick and very simple geology lesson, here. The landmass of Iceland was created a long time ago (don’t ask your parents, far older than that) by a volcanic eruption caused by significant movement of two tectonic plates. Iceland itself sits on the border of the North American and Eurasian plates, which are found far, far below the surface.

You could argue that Reykjavik is in North America...

Sulfurous steam pouring out of a crack in the earth 

Tectonic activity has shaped and sculpted Iceland for millennia. It’s created lakes such as Lagarfljót, on the eastern side of the island.

The water starts at the Vatnajökull ice cap...

This lake has an interesting story attached to it. It’s where you will find the ‘Icelandic Loch Ness Monster’, if that’s your bag. Lagarfljótsormur, as it’s delightfully known, has ‘appeared’ periodically since Viking times. A video of it swimming around, which you can see here, appeared in 2012.

...and drifts out to the Arctic Ocean. Brr!

The tectonic plates dragging themselves apart at the speed of your fingernail growth also create the height differences which lead - eventually - to waterfall creation. Near the lake there is a lovely fall called Hengifoss. This is Iceland’s second-highest waterfall and is a very impressive sight. The threat of falling rocks and boulders meant that we couldn’t get too close, as the park authorities closed the path halfway up.

Hengifoss is the fall at the top of the picture

The water drops 118 metres

I got closer to Dettifoss, a dreamy set of falls which produced the double rainbow I’d heard about at Gullfoss. Dettifoss is said to be one of the most powerful waterfalls in Europe...

This waterfall is wider than many in Iceland

Where the gold at?

Tectonic plates created the mountains around Iceland’s ‘second city’ of Akureyri. Sorry, but with a population of less than 20,000 and one ‘main street’, I’m calling this a town at best. Lovely place, mind, set on a lagoon.

Four syllables: ah-koo-ray-ree

Like Reykjavik, they like a colorful pavement here

We arrived in Akureyri in a happy, peaceful mood. This was because of an experience also connected to Iceland’s underground magic.

Panorama of Myvatn Nature Baths

#science

The country is famous for its ‘hot pots’ and love of bathing in warm water. A hot pot is a body of water naturally heated by the earth. Finding methods of bringing this hot water to the surface has transformed lives here. Reykjavik’s streets never ice over as they have pipes heating them throughout the winter. Hot water is constantly available in people’s houses. And then there’s the bathing…

Owing to the sulphur, I wouldn't bathe in this...

Geothermal plants are seen sporadically around the country

Stereotyping slightly, British people will congregate to socialise in a pub. Icelanders will do this at a swimming pool. Swimming can happen at these places, but usually people will sit in essentially a large bath and hang out. I did this in Reykjavik on my last night in one of its 20+ public pools and the place was busy. 

Sundhollin swimming pool is in downtown Reykjavik

You can't take photos inside - this is a stock image of two of
the hot pools, which were 39'C and 42'C respectively

This wasn’t my first Icelandic hot pot. The hotel we stayed at on ‘Loch Ness Monster Lake’ also had a tub, which we used after attempting to reach Hengifoss. Sitting in a hot tub in broad daylight as the clock approaches 11pm is a pretty surreal experience, particularly when you introduce an African liqueur, Amarula, into the equation.

Forest, lake and mountains - an incredible view

These are regular hot pools - you could find these anywhere in the world. Iceland’s ace in the pack are its larger geothermal pools. The most famous example is the Blue Lagoon, situated by the international airport.

Stock image of the Blue Lagoon

You may be surprised to discover that I didn’t actually go to the Blue Lagoon. I was advised not to, having already been to its equivalent in the north at Myvatn. 

Myvatn is in the north, coming down from the central highlands

The milky blue waters in Myvatn

Once you have gone through the hygiene protocols, you step out into an area with lovely views of the lake below. Being outside and a bit windy, you quickly walk into the milky blue water and...relax…

Didn't come out well here, but Lake Myvatn
is near the horizon in this picture

I can only imagine how packed this would be in pre-Covid times

My skin soon felt like a baby’s bottom, a result of the minerals in the water doing their magic. No silica masks here like the Blue Lagoon. Just a cold beer in a warm bath in the mild sunshine. This was why we approached Iceland’s ‘second town’ in a zen-like mood.

Water temperature changed depending on
where you were, ranging from 26'C to 40'C

The colour is due to the minerals found in the water

Iceland was probably a harsh, unforgiving place to live until this renewable energy beneath the surface was tapped. Now it provides heat and happiness for all to enjoy.

Skál!

Love you all,

Matt