Monday, 29 July 2024

México - A New Wonder of the World

 July 18-19


Hello everyone!


You’ve probably heard of the Seven Wonders of the World. I’ve seen the one that’s still standing. Have you, however, heard about the ‘New’ list of seven?


The pyramid of Chichén Itzá...is being eaten by a snake! Aargh!

Building of the Nuns


It’s a more varied list than the original, with most regions of the world represented. Certainly more people had an impact on this list than the original, with voting taking place by internet and text message. The list contains structures in Peru, Brazil, Jordan, China, Italy, India…and Mexico.


Rome's Colosseum in 2018

Agra's Taj Mahal in 2011

China's Great Wall in 2010


The latter is called Chichén Itzá, a Mayan site on the Yucatán peninsula. One of many Mayan sites, actually. As I showed in the previous blog, the other sites are pretty special themselves. So what makes Chichén Itzá better? What makes it worthy of being included on that prestigious modern list of wonders?


The flat ground around it means you can
take many creative photos of the main temple

There are many iguanas here. Apparently the collective noun
for iguanas is 'a mess of iguanas', which I feel is harsh.

Well I had to find out, of course. Many people want to find out. Chichén Itzá is the most visited historical site in Mexico. Part of this is owing to its proximity to some very popular tourist spots: specifically, Cancún.

One of many vendors setting up on site. At least he
wasn't making the horrible 'jaguar' noise out of a souvenir...

It's an easy day trip from Merida and the tourist
hotspots of Cancun, Tulum and Playa del Carmen


Chichén Itzá - ‘the Mouth of the Well for the Itzaes’ - was the capital city that concentrated political, economic and ideological power on the peninsula. Its zenith was later than Palenque, between 800 CE and 1200 CE. The site…is massive.


A museum in Mexico City told me that Chichén Itzá was the first
time a single pre-Hispanic city controlled economy and politics.
I don't really know what exactly that means, I feel they go hand in hand.

This is the Red House - they think it used to be red

Strolling up from the entrance under the shade of trees, you suddenly see the land open. A large, flat area dominated by this…

The centrepiece of 10 sq km of total land

Some believe that the slant or balustrade shows the image
of a descending snake when the light hits it correctly
at certain times of the year. Not today, obviously.

El Castillo. The castle. The centrepiece which is what most would conjure in their minds if someone asked them to picture Chichén Itzá. Obviously this is a European name for the 30-metre-tall stone structure. In reality, it was the Kukulkan Temple.

At its height, Chichén Itzá was home to Mayan
people from all areas of the Yucatan Peninsula.

The temple was built between the ninth and twelfth centuries

A couple of cool elements about this. You can create one yourself by clapping firmly at the bottom of one of the four staircases. You suddenly hear a bird sound in response. Some believe that this was purposely created by the initial designers. Absolutely incredible if that’s true. 

See that red dot in front of it? That's me. It's big.


The other interesting aspect is that this temple is built over a water cave, known as a cenote. I’m going to pause writing about Chichén Itzá to segue to these fascinating natural wonders which are unique to this part of the world. As to why they exist, we need to go back in time. A lot further back than the Mayans…


Cenote water is often very clear, as the water comes
from rain water filtering slowly through the ground

Pondering how old these might be...

Go back about 66 million years, actually. The time of the dinosaurs. They were doing quite well for themselves when suddenly…gone. A meteorite smashed into Earth, wiping out most life. It landed…very close to the Yucatán Peninsula. Its impact is connected to a ring of holes and tunnels within the limestone of the Yucatán. Hundreds, if not thousands, of these holes filled with water over time, creating natural pools.

This is where scientists believe the meteorite struck Earth


In sweltering weather, they’re great for swimming and exploring. Some of the rock formations, such as the stalactites at Cenote Kankirixche, are mind boggling. 


The name translates to 'Tree of Yellow Fruit'

The darker section at the back and to the right can be up to 50 metres deep

The word cenote is connected to the Mayan language - ts’ono’ot - meaning ‘a hole filled with water’. They were very important to this civilisation as they were often the most reliable source of water - there are hardly any rivers on the entire peninsula. I found that fact quite astounding. The cenotes had another purpose for the Maya, though…

This one is partially covered but you are not allowed to
use sunscreen in any cenote in order to protect them

Chichén Itzá's southern cenote - this one was used for drinking water, unlike the larger 'sacred' sinkhole

Some of them were pretty sacred spots, particularly the one at Chichén Itzá. The Sacred Cenote was thought to be one of the main entries to the underworld. One idea is that the city itself was built here because of this cenote. It was dredged at the start of the twentieth century, after which archaeologists found many relics…and parts of humans…

It has a diameter of up to 200 feet, or over 60 metres

They believe that children, warriors and maidens were sacrificed.
How they know this from bones, I have no idea...

Chichén Itzá is more than just a pyramid and waterhole, however. It has many structures, larger than at other sites, which help to explain important facets of the Mayan world. One of these was a large, intimidating ball game court. 

This is the largest ball court I've seen by far.
This is Old Trafford compared to someone's back garden.

A variety of temples stand proudly around the ball game area


Further away from the main plaza was a secondary area, known as the Plaza of A Thousand Columns. There were indeed a lot of columns here, as well as the remains of what would have been one of the largest pre-Hispanic markets.


The Temple of the Warriors. Possibly destroyed...by other warriors.

Possibly remnants of the market

The Mayans are known in modern culture for their calendar (remember when the world was going to end in 2012?). The calendar is based on precise use of astrology, for which you would need quite a large observatory. Check.

The cylindrical nature of the tower is quite rare in Mayan architecture

Their priests succeeded in calculating solar and lunar
eclipses, and the solar year, with great accuracy.

The architecture of two buildings near the observatory, which were given Spanish names of The Church and The Building of the Nuns, is a bit different from the rest. There is a lot more intricate detail carved within their stone exteriors, which makes them look very appealing.

The Church

They didn't have nuns in Mayan times -
the Spanish thought the building resembled a convent

The city declined drastically in the thirteenth century, though the Spanish are said to have found a growing settlement when they arrived about 300 years later. I’m not sure how much damage was done, or how much has been recently restored.

The Temple of the Large Tables

Some of the detail has resisted Father Time

Without doubt, Chichén Itzá is a pre-Hispanic site of epic proportions. It oozes grandeur and status. As for its fame ahead of other Mexica and Mayan sites, though, I do think that much of its foot traffic - and therefore popularity - comes from being close to Cancun and Playa del Carmen. In a popular vote, you’re going to pick the one you’ve visited or know of, aren’t you? If Palenque was as easily accessible as Chichén Itzá, would it have been picked instead? Possibly.

Quite a rickety staircase...

A turquoise-browed motmot - in El Salvador it's
known as a torogoz, and is the national bird

As I have said before, each pre-Hispanic site seems to be a little bit different from any other. Your ‘favourite’ is therefore personal preference, and any of the sites could easily be argued for. Does a pre-Hispanic site in Mexico deserve to be on that New Seven Wonders of the World list? Absolutely. Did it have to be Chichén Itzá? Not necessarily. But it is certainly worthy of being seen as a prestigious vestige of our slightly more modern history.

Cooling off in a cool cenote

Chichén Itzá impressive


Love you all,


Matt

Friday, 26 July 2024

México - Mad (Mayan) World

 July 16-17


Hello everyone!


Having spent the last three weeks high above sea level, it was time to come down to Earth. Where better to do that than in the land of the Maya…


Palenque Ruins

A winking mask at the Mayan World Museum

The eastern part of México is known as the Yucatán Peninsula. There are three states that are amalgamated under this umbrella, with the most famous being Quintana Roo: home of Cancun and the other Caribbean Sea hotspots. Before getting there, however, we were stopping in the actual state of Yucatán’s main city: Mérida.

Iguanas are commonly seen in the Yucatan

It's also an altitude drop of about 2000 metres


Mérida is a strange one for me. It’s got beautiful buildings, a vibrant food and drink culture, lovely parks and squares (at least the ones not under construction). Yet I’d never heard of it, would never have considered visiting, and can’t see myself going back.


The city was founded in 1542, after almost twenty
years of battles with the indigenus population

Chicharron (pork and crackling) made for a delicious mid-morning snack

I’m not quite sure why. Aside from the fantastic Spanish-era buildings, it felt quite gritty and a little bit unloved. Aside from the long, wide expanse of Paseo de Montejo, it felt very crowded - even with it being significantly smaller than CDMX, Puebla and Oaxaca de Juarez. Aside from the occasional park, it felt very urban.

This building seemed abandoned

The boulevard is named after the 'founder' of Merida, 
Francisco de Montejo the Younger

There is one other explanation. It. Was. Hot. Not that dry heat which is more manageable, either. A high temperature, often mid-30s, combined with strong sun and high humidity. Just walking around the town quickly became unpleasant.

The Monument to the Fatherland, built in 1956

Best way to cool off: with jumbo luridly-coloured
cocktails and free snacks 

As with all places I’ve visited in México, what you see around the town is lovely and interesting. The old governor’s palace, for example, contains many artistic murals.

The other side of these walls is the main square 

A mural about maize - according to the Mayan holy
book 'Popol Vuh', man came from...corn.

The cathedral is very bare when compared to other religious monuments in México. It’s also the second oldest completed cathedral in the Americas, behind the one in the Dominican Republic. The main square in front of it has apparently been under ‘reconstruction’ for seven months. I’m sure it will be lovely once it’s finished and the dust settles, rather than flying in people’s faces. For now, you can use a mask, or walk into a fridge nearby...

It was completed in 1598

What lies behind the fridge door...see below...


This is all sounding harsh. I actually quite liked Mérida. Its main attraction is a bit of a slog to get to (particularly when trying to strike out and use the bus system independently - a nice young man had to swipe me in to avoid me taking a 12 km walk) but showcases the region as a land with rich history, culture and thought. 


A Maya almanac, containing predictions for what to do on each day

This large sculpture has sharp facial features...and a beard!

This area of México is Mayan country. It spread south from the Yucatán through modern-day Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and even parts of El Salvador. The temples - and there are many - on the peninsula are almost exclusively belonging to this civilisation which was doing things we couldn't imagine almost 1500 years ago.

Rope string was a useful commodity which is still made here today

The Maya venerated almost fifty deities - this isn't one of the more attractive ones...

The Mayan World Museum focuses a bit on highlighting what Mayan life was like. It also, more surprisingly for me, shares a lot of detail about what Mayan life is like. Now. In the 21st century. It claims that 30% of the population of Yucatán speaks Yucatec Maya, an indigenous language. I wonder if that’s like saying 30% of Wales speaks Welsh because they’re force-fed it for a couple of years at school…

This picture tries to show the cooperation the Spanish needed from the Maya 

Many used to think the Maya were peaceful - sculptures
such as this, showing hands bound, debunk that idea

It talks about discriminatory challenges facing Mayans in Mexican and international society. It also showcases the wonderful styles and ideas which have been the epicentre of Mayan culture since the days of its great settlements.

This picture shows the different jobs Mayans presently do around the world 

Corn God Man!

We stopped at one such old city to break up our two-day journey between San Cristobal de las Casas and Mérida. A UNESCO Heritage Site, the archaeological zone of Palenque evokes vibes of Indiana Jones. Trekking (or driving) through jungle before suddenly appearing in front of this…

The Temple of Inscriptions

The Palace and Tower


Palenque was a powerful Maya kingdom which was at its height between 500 and 700 CE. It was one of the most important cities in the region and possessed a lot of creative sculptures and architecture. It was also quite a large urban area, with a palace and ball court.


It's unknown what the tower was used for

A ball game court usually has stone rings but they weren't found here

There are many temples which, if not in perfect condition, have withstood the tests of time and the Spanish. The complex contains many temples, such as the delightfully named Temple of the Skull. It actually has a skull relief carved within the upper section.

They apparently found a grave with lots of treasures underneath

The skull with a bit of zoom

It was also home to one of the most famous Mayan rulers: Palak. The man with the moniker ‘Lord of the Solar Shield’ ruled Palenque for 68 years. To put that into context, I don’t think many people of the time would have lived past 50, let alone ruled for longer than that. He was interred in the Temple of Inscriptions, a towering structure with detailed reliefs (no skulls) on the top.

The temple has nine levels

Pakal's grave was discovered in 1952

Palak's mask is a common souvenir

The person they think was Palak’s wife was buried in a different structure, the Temple of the Red Queen. You’re able to pop inside this one and see her burial chamber.

It is also known, more scientifically, as Temple XIII

The objects in the tomb were found covered with cinnabar, a red stone 

What I loved about Palenque was the idea of exploration. The jungle seems to have reestablished itself over much of the site, particularly away from the main section. Walking around the lower area in particular evoked thoughts of a lost world and a town which still leaves more to be discovered. I did overhear a guide say that a lack of willingness to put extra funds into Palenque means that some things may remain undiscovered.

Temple of the Cross

Zone B and C are wilder

Admittedly, that peace would have been found in the main area as well…if they weren’t cutting the grass, and if there weren’t quite a few vendors hawking tat.

They do need to cut the grass, I appreciate that!


Nonetheless, visiting the old jungle metropolis of Palenque was a marvellous, fascinating experience. It’s not easy to compare each pre-Hispanic site I’ve visited so far as they’ve all seemed to have a unique element about them. Seeing one with a jungle backdrop, however, might just give Palenque the edge. 


Spiders setting up camp

Powerful Palenque


Love you all,


Matt