México - Wacky Oaxaca

 July 9-11

Hello everyone!

México is huge, the thirteenth largest country in the world. This means that different areas of it have different cultures, foods and histories. This is particularly evident for México in the state of Oaxaca. It’s pronounced wuh-HA-cuh, and contains a lot of wonder.

Hierve El Agua

An illuminated saxophone: not historically related to Oaxaca

Oaxaca was known in ancient times as the land of the ‘Cloud People’. The area is indeed high and mountainous enough to justify such a tag. The first settlements in the state, which is about 370km southeast of Mexico City, developed significantly with the Zapotec civilisation from approximately 1500 BCE. If I had more time, I would have definitely visited their crowning glory, the pre-Hispanic city of Monte Alban, if I’d had an extra day here.

Oaxaca the state stretches down to the Pacific coast

The Zapotecs declined in around 800 CE, which left a power vacuum until the Mexicas, led by Montezuma I, conquered the area in the 1460s

The second Montezuma, of meeting the Spanish fame, told Hernan Cortes about an area of great gold wealth in the south. The first troops were sent to explore in 1520; by the end of the decade, Oaxaca had been pillaged and renamed Antequera. As usual, Christianity was imposed on the local populace and much of the local tradition was eradicated.

Oaxaca de Juarez, the main city, has a lot of amazing street art

Many of its main streets are pedestrianised and
adorned with colourful, fluttering flags

Preparations for a wedding outside the Temple of Santo Domingo

Somehow, however, a lot of tradition remained or has been resurrected. The state of Oaxaca is therefore one of the most diverse places in the country.

Trying to spot the sea (it's too far) at Hierve El Agua

Oaxaca de Juarez had the last part added to its name to honour
one of Mexico's most popular leaders, Benito Juarez

The food is different. Here is where you get a tlayuda: a Mexican pizza. Think of an enormous, crunchy tortilla as your base. Think of a refried black bean paste replacing the marinara sauce. Think of…well, lots of cheese just like any decent pizza! Huge, filling, and a rare semblance of salad as well.

Sometimes it comes folded... 

...and sometimes it doesn't

Oaxaca is actually more famous for mole (pronounced MOH-leh). Simply put, these are savoury chilli sauces which go over a meat, often chicken. The state has seven common varieties, ranging from mole negro (think chocolate gravy) to manchamantales: the red ‘tablecloth-stainer’. With more time, I’d have sampled more mole. 

All of these pastes make different moles

This was almost too sweet for me, and I have quite the sweet tooth...

Peculiar snacks are also known to come from the region. These include chicatanas (ants), gusano de maguey (worms) and chapulines (grasshoppers). Most can be found in the large central market. I tried the latter, which were crunchy and tasted of…lemon. They had been coated with that and chilli, admittedly. 

Protein!

This fruit cup was far more appealing, it also included jicama (a radish) and cucumber

The worms - and scorpions, if you’re particularly adventurous - can sometimes be found in one of Oaxaca’s drinks of choice: mezcal. This comes from the agave plant, just like tequila. It is crafted in a different way, involving the piñas being baked underground and double distilled before the liquid is stored in oak barrels. It can also be created in more states than tequila, which is more restricted. Mezcal has a smoky taste and is not for everyone.

This place grew three types of agave

They look empty but there is liquid in them, we didn't drink that much!

Possibly the way they get people to buy it is by plying you with free samples. This happens everywhere, from tours of mezcal farms to high-end shops in downtown Oaxaca City. The flavoured versions, which have a lower percentage and are creamier, would be particularly deadly. Mexican Baileys.

Fancy shops like this sell bottles at twice the price of the local market nearby

Oaxacan gold - I'm not so sure

It's fun to try, though!

Thankfully we went Mezcal tasting after, and not before, visiting a weaving production house in the village of Teotitlán del Valle. Their methodology is the same as in Zapotec times: using natural sources for colours, merging wool by hand, and generally producing patterns without curves. It was fascinating to see the time, care and expertise put in for some of their carpets. Their price and weight meant I was never going to buy one, but I actually thought they were selling them on the cheap side considering the effort they put in. They also gave us free mezcal - it happens everywhere.

This place used sheep's wool for their products

The different bowls show the product which creates
the colours, ranging from marigolds to moss

Almost everywhere. We spent one day exploring a couple of interesting natural wonders outside of Oaxaca City. The first of these, called Arbol El Tule, is reported to be one of the fattest - sorry, widest - trees in the world, with a diameter of over 14 metres. Whilst admittedly strange to stare at this whilst the music of an early morning dance class was blaring from the square next door, it was an impressive sight.

The tree is 42 metres tall

They've somehow managed to calculate its weight as over 636,000 tonnes

Over 2000 years old, and very impressive - the
people inside the perimeter are helping to maintain it

From here we ventured southeast to an area called Hierve el Agua. This roughly translates as ‘water that boils’. It doesn’t, it’s actually quite cool. In more than one meaning.

I learnt about this place from watching Race Across the World!

This is one of the few calcified waterfalls in the world

The views from the pools are insane

This area is simply breathtaking. Cascades of calcium carbonate and other minerals have created what look like frozen colourful waterfalls. At the top of these sit some pools of water which have beautiful views across the escarpment.

It's about 65 km from Oaxaca's main city

The bigger cascade is about 80m high

Partly enjoying our walk, partly desperate to get in the water!

These were created thousands of years ago and were used by the Zapotecs for their healing properties. I’m not sure how ‘healing’ they truly are - I ended up lightly burning my shoulders instead - but they’re certainly water for the soul.

We went quite early to beat crowds and rain

Different minerals create different colours - I really liked this one

Heading back through the clouds towards the city, I had time to reflect on Oaxaca as a whole. Whilst drinking mezcal, of course. I’d love to come back during Day of the Dead, which has a huge parade and many events in the city. I’d also just appreciate more time here. With so much to see and experience, and only being able to have 3 meals a day, there is plenty of reason to return to Oaxaca in the future.

We didn't always avoid the rain...

Gem of a place: Hierve El Agua

Being here for Day of the Dead would be special!

Love you all,

Matt