Finland - Fortresses and Forests

July 12, 14

Hello everyone!

Finland is a surprisingly big place. It covers an area almost equivalent to Germany, which I definitely didn’t expect to read. A lot of that is nature, specifically forest, and far from Helsinki. However, there are some nice places just outside of the city which are worth a visit.

Suomenlinna Fortress

Nuuksio National Park

Green is Nuuksio National Park, red is Suomenlinna Fortress

One of these could easily be classed as ‘inside’ the city; it just happens to sit on an island. As I said last time, Helsinki lacks elements like a medieval Old Town because it wasn’t an important city until the 19th century. Its surrounding area was of military importance, however, so defensive structures were built in the surrounding area, particularly off the coast. One of these is the island of Suomenlinna: The Castle of Finland.

One of about 330 islands within Helsinki's city limits

There are over 6 km of defensive walls

If you take the boat between Tallinn and Helsinki, you pass Suomenlinna and a few other islands. Technically, Suomenlinna is eight islands, but some of them are tiny, and they are all connected by foot bridges. 

Lots of wildlife on the island - this is a Eurasian oystercatcher

You can see a bridge behind the boat.
To the left is a submarine.

The scale of the bastion, star-shaped fortress is best appreciated from that big boat traversing international waters. It was built by Sweden in the middle of the 18th century, perhaps wary of potential threats from the south and east.

The star shape is to help protect from cannon fire

The fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

It may have helped for a little bit of time, but it ended up in Russian hands in the first decade of the 19th century. Russia added some artillery protection and boosted the walls of the bastion at the end of the island. 

The King's Gate was the main entrance to the fortress
when built in the 1750s - this was renovated in the 1990s

Multiple cannons are on display - now
they are used as a seat by seagulls!

There are other intriguing elements of Russian/Soviet history here. One is that it briefly became a prison for Bolshevik Red Army soldiers after Finnish independence. Another is that there is a Finnish submarine, the Vesikko, raised above the water’s edge. This submarine was active in the Second World War and actually sank a Soviet ship in 1941.

The submarine is 41 metres long, and was first launched in 1933

It patrolled in the Gulf of Finland,
protecting the country from enemy vessels

Suomenlinna also possesses other old buildings, some of which are seen as relatively old for the greater Helsinki region. The church, originally Russian Orthodox, was inaugurated in 1854. Other areas, such as the Dry Dock, are from the 1750s. People lived here at the time to make sure that the fortress was in working order.

It switched to a Lutheran church in 1918, a
year after Finland declared independence

A popular walking spot, the island has a 'Blue
Trail' to help you see interesting places

What makes Suomenlinna interesting is that people still live here. Between 300 and 900, depending on your source. There are residential areas, a school, a day care centre and a library, amongst other things. I think that the number of restaurants and cafes on the islands are due to the number of visitors they receive: it’s a very popular and easy trip from Helsinki, a 15 minute boat ride with boats going pretty much every 20 minutes from very early until very late.

One of many residential properties on Suomenlinna

Boats run approximately from 6am to 2am in summer

Another popular place to visit is Nuuksio, to the west of the capital. It’s accessible using the greater Helsinki transport network, which actually includes Espoo, Finland’s second most populated city. A short bus ride north of that takes you far away from urban life.

A tram and two buses, but a total trip of only about 90 minutes -
it's about 30km from Helsinki, so would be much faster in a car

The private beach area at Haltia Gate, the main jump-off
point for exploring Nuuksio National Park

Nuuksio National Park was formed in 1994, and is one of 41 in the country. It consists of dense forest, placid lakes…and silence. Aside from the occasional sound of birdsong or a cyclist zipping along the trails.

Trees and mires make up much of the forest

You could rent bikes at the Haltia Gate office, though
most people would be locals bringing their own

As I mentioned earlier, there’s a fair bit of forest here. Over 75% of Finland is classed as forest. They are therefore important to the country's culture and economy. Over 20 million hectares has been deemed suitable for wood production.

Note the change in bark colour

A lot of the trees were thin and spindly

The well-marked trails I took initially took me on a loop through this forested area. An easy and lovely stroll of about 6 kilometres through the undulating forest of aspen and juniper trees.

A sign told me that junipers are hundreds of years old, and
that aspens are the most important tree species in the forest 

In winter, this place has many cross-country skiers

What this trail didn’t have was any view of water, which led me to join a different trail taking me away from the popular starting point of Haltia Gate. It took me past Nuuksio’s Reindeer Farm; unfortunately, it is only open on Wednesdays and weekends.

The other trail passes into another national park

Rudolph: only available 3 days a week

After a while, I found some of the stillest water you’re ever likely to see. I had been planning on going for a swim, but no one else had braved the water. Also in the first place, there was a small family eating their picnic lunch on the jetty, who probably wouldn’t have appreciated a strange foreigner stripping off and jumping in next to them!

After a lot of steps, this section was much flatter

The family on the jetty were around the corner. I also think
this particular part may have been private property...

I finished my hike at another popular spot, called Haukkalampi. A different lake, and one with a lot more people (there’s a car park nearby). I contented myself to laze on the jetty for a while…until realising that the nearest bus stop was over 2 kilometres away, and that the bus was arriving in 25 minutes.

Food reward for the 11 kilometre hike

Visual reward for the 11 kilometre hike

Walking through here on a pleasantly warm day was very relaxing. Like Suomenlinna, Nuuksio National Park is a place where people living in the capital like to come to get away from life for a little while. Both lovely places to visit if you ever go to Finland.

Suomenlinna Fortress

Nuuksio National Park

See ya Suomi!

Love you all,

Matt