The Travelling Teacher

March 20-31

Hello everyone!

Wherever I move, I know I’ll be lucky enough to have some brave visitors who will try just about anything I ask them to do. Meet the parents!

Proud parents atop Santa Ana volcano

Enjoying a craft beer in Antigua Guatemala

They’ve come to Korea, Kazakhstan, Czech Republic and Malawi. They weren’t going to pass up the opportunity to visit Central America for the first time.

Eating delicious food in Seoul in 2010

Zooming down Astana's Ishim river in 2012

Walking around wintry Prague in 2014

On safari in Liwonde NP in 2017

Normally I write about new places or experiences. However, I decided to ease my parents into Latin America with some of the highlights I’ve had so far. This blog is therefore slightly different - it recaps places I’ve been before (with links to those blogs if you want to learn more about them), but explains how the experience was slightly different.

Overlooking Antigua Guatemala in 2024!

I did also have some downtime - I'm also on holiday!

Stop 1: Santa Tecla (previous blog for Ecoparque)

It’s always interesting getting fresh perspectives on life in El Salvador. I tend to forget that the buses have spikes sticking out of their rims, or that driving 5 kilometres shouldn’t take up to an hour. It’s nice to be reminded that some of these elements are…unusual.

The 'Cultural Palace' in Santa Tecla - I'm yet to visit, and we didn't go in this time either

Walking the dogs in Parque Bicentenario

One thing that is particularly unusual at the moment is the weather, specifically the heat and humidity. We are building up to rainy season, so this is when the climate can become a little bit uncomfortable.

6am sunrise view in school - my parents spent time meeting my class
and debating whether Ronaldo is better than Messi. Because that's important.

More dog walking, though Mini is a big
fan of being dragged along grass

Though higher up than nextdoor San Salvador, Santa Tecla is not immune from the heat. You would think that an area of greenery, such as the nearby Ecoparque on the slope of the volcano, would bring a bit of relief from the heat. It didn’t, and was probably not the time to forget the route to the viewing points…

We fatefully went for slope rather than steps

We eventually considered it good volcano training!

The main difference to normal life was trying new restaurants, such as El Xolo. This is a more high-end establishment which prizes itself on using Mayan history to infuse its cuisine. The portion sizes suggest to me that Mayans must have often been hungry.

Something to do with tiger milk, this one

The cocktails were tremendous

Stop 2: Antigua Guatemala (previous blogs for Antigua in 2023 and 2024)

Of all the places in the Central American countries under the C-4 travel agreement, Antigua Guatemala is possibly the most popular city to visit. It has just about everything a tourist would want.

Fruit smoothis at Caoba Farm, possibly my favourite eating spot in Antigua

Carpets, called alfombras, were created on Palm Sunday

The first time I came here was in April 2023. It was in Semana Santa: Holy Week. It can seem like the whole of Central America descends on Antigua at this time to watch the parades. I decided I wouldn’t come again during Holy Week. That lasted…one year.

One of many processions - more will
happen as Easter Sunday approaches

We calculated over 100 people were carrying this float

In reality, I’m always happy to pop up north to this colonial gem. It has many excellent places to eat, photogenic streets and a backdrop of green hills and imposing volcanoes.

The famous Santa Catalina arch, with
Volcan de Agua appearing under it

A short walk up to the cross gives you a spectacular city view

One new place we went to was a ‘speakeasy’ cocktail bar called ULEW, which is hidden within another bar. You enter through a British telephone box. There is no menu. Instead, a waiter comes over and asks you a few questions. What eventually arrives, in a unique glass on a unique coaster, is delightful.

Like being in a TARDIS!

At about $10 each for a custom-made, personalised
drink, we thought this was actually quite good value

We also tried this fun ice-cream shop...

Stop 3: Ruta de las Flores (previous blogs for Atacó and Apaneca)

Upon returning to El Salvador, we stayed overnight in the pretty town of Ataco. Unlike previous visits in October 2022 and May 2023, we hadn’t been here during Semana Santa. The quality of the carpets was a bit different. Arguably more creative, as they were using recycled bottle tops and lollipops in their alfombras.

The real heroes are the people who drank the
beer to provide the bottle tops, of course

The parades trample over the carpets as a way of showing sacrifice

In the morning we headed to the next town on the Ruta de las Flores, Apaneca, to do some ziplining. I did this on my own in October 2022. It’s always nice to share the experience with other people, particularly my mum, who couldn’t stop grinning throughout.

The longest wire is over 400 metres long

One also descended by over 100 metres,
meaning you can go pretty fast!

Taking a hand off always runs the risk of you
spinning and looking like an idiot. I didn't, luckily.

Stop 4: Lago de Coatepeque (previous blog)

We then had a couple of more relaxing days in Santa Tecla, which we used as a base for small trips to places like La Libertad’s fish market.

The pier is closed so the best place to buy is in the market

A scary pufferfish!

We explored the beach areas on Maundy Thursday. I’m not sure whether this was a public holiday in El Salvador, but it seemed like everybody had vacated the big city and poured down to the coast. We found a place with a lovely lunch (I had been there three weeks prior for breakfast and had waited forever for anything to come to the table), a strange perk being that you can drink beer out of a horn.

Shrimp cocktail with a view

Horny?

The Easter weekend was being spent at one of my favourite spots in El Salvador: Lake Coatepeque. It looked as stunning as ever from a distance, though a bit green upon closer inspection…

Mini was desperate to inspect the water...

By Sunday morning it looked like this, covered with algae.
The oil slicks from jetskis wouldn't help, either.

The water away from the shore seemed cleaner, which is where we took our inflatable kayak and paddleboard. Our dogs, complete with their striking lifejackets, enjoy trying to eat the waves (and the paddle) when on the latter.

The dogs are on the board here

My Sunday morning paddle took me 3 kilometres
around part of the lake, which itself is much bigger

Swim ready!

The main reason for coming here, however, looms large over the lake. The country’s highest volcano, Santa Ana. I hiked it in September 2022 and was looking forward to doing so again. My parents were feeling a combination of anticipation and trepidation. They’d been in training by walking in the UK, but nothing can compare to scaling Santa Ana. If nothing else, there is nowhere this high in the UK!

The sign near the top - it mostly tells you that it's dangerous!

All smiles at the start of the hike

We started early to beat the heat and the crowds. With only a couple of stops and very little complaint, we made it to the summit in a little over 2 hours. I was immensely proud, and they deserved the incredible views of the crater and lake (not to mention the ice-creams!) from the top.

Izalco is the volcano in the background

The top has a sulphuric lake in the crater

The clouds parted enough to see the lake in all its glory

Going down…less enjoyable. A couple of slips, a traffic jam and an increasingly hot day were factors. I do also think it is harder coming down some volcanoes and mountains than going up them. What heartened my parents was the number of times a Salvadorean offered to help them.

A bottleneck meant we didn't move for 10 minutes

Still all smiles at the bottom, if a little bit dustier!

It was a lovely ten days in which my parents sampled lots of different food, met dozens of people and had a wonderful first experience of Central America. On top of that, they conquered a volcano!

Steak at Casa Escobar in Antigua, a lovely treat

Admiring the view of Cerro Verde and
Izalco on the Volcan de Santa Ana hike

Seeing black sand at Puerto de La Libertad

Ziplining in Apaneca

Love you all,

Matt

February 24-25

Hello everyone!

No need to chase them when there are so many in close proximity. Seven, in fact.

One of the 'siete cascadas'

A hike which included clambering up rocks!

Welcome to the area surrounding the village of Juayua, a stop on the ‘Ruta de las Flores’ or ‘Flower Route’. I’ve mentioned before that one of El Salvador’s methods of boosting tourism away from the blackened beaches of the Pacific Ocean is to create a variety of ‘routes’ such as these, which take a visitor to vaguely interesting places inland.

This route starts in Sonsonate and heads north to Ahuachapan

Not many flowers visible by the waterfalls

It’s not the easiest town to pronounce. Any guesses? Joo-ah-yoo-ah? Jwa-yu-wah? Huh-wuh-ah-yoo-ah?

Welcome to where??

The outskirts have pretty art painted on gates

‘why-OO-uh’ is the correct way to see this cute little town, which has developed a reputation as a nice place to visit. This is particularly pertinent on Saturdays and Sundays, when it hosts a weekly gastronomic festival. We’d seen this once before…at about 9am, when the only stall open was selling Taiwanese dumplings. As part of a whirlwind 24 hours away from the big city, we started by exploring the food available in Juayua on Saturday afternoon.

Apparently the church is famous for having a 'black Christ' inside

Walking across the main square from the imposing church towards a series of canopies, you’re initially hit by…noise. Specifically, blaring music. Speakers mere metres from one another compete to fill any possible semblance of silence. Not even the smoke billowing up from the grills is able to dampen it.

There were three or four different streets with entrances such as this

Wondering how to satisfy hunger

I don’t know why but in my head I had imagined food from a variety of cultures being hidden under these canopies. There are a variety of…carbs. To go with your meat.

Rice, bread, pasta...

Oh, and your michelada, of course. The effort it took to make what is essentially a Bloody Mary, into which you pour beer, was something to behold. The man’s careful and deliberate sequencing and placing of elements into and on the drink made it seem as if he was creating a sculpture for the ages. His sculpture lasted about 15 minutes. I was thirsty.

I think micheladas eminate from Mexico

Your beer comes separately and you then mix the two together

A slightly underwhelming food experience, though very filling to the point where we didn’t need proper food for the rest of the day. Lucky that, as we were staying a bit out of town…

This is a dome. We slept in it. Marvellous.

The Santa Ana volcano, El Salvador's
highest, is hidden behind that tree on the right

This was the real reason for going away. I had found Kafen on Instagram, had a look at the domes and thought “por que no?” And why not indeed with a view that stretched south almost to the sea and north to mountains and green-tinged volcanoes.

The place has three domes and one hut

The cold outdoor shower had a great view

It stayed pretty light throughout the night as it was close to a full moon. We were surprised by how windy it became but had a lovely stay.

Sunset looking towards the ocean

We had our own fire for an hour #marshmallows

The following morning we had arranged to do a popular hike colloquially known as the ‘seven waterfalls’ trek. A dusty drive along roads reminiscent of Malawi took us to…well, nowhere really. The car was parked, we brought a small bag with what was needed and got going a little while after 8am.

The start of our walk

The initial descent reminded us of the frustrating trip back down a volcano we had taken two weeks before. However, this dusty walk down was brief and soon stopped with some waterfalls visible in the distance.

Oscar was our guide

The first waterfall we visited

A little bit further down we were asked to change into water shoes. This part involved walking through the river - apparently it is creatively named ‘seven waterfalls river’ - to get closer to the waterfalls.

Each fall has a name, this is Bejuco

This waterfall is 50 metres tall, the tallest being 70m

After seeing the beautiful 50-metre-high fall shown above, we approached what I think is waterfall number four. We got a little bit closer to this one…because we had to climb it…

The surprise of waterfall number four...

We used a rope to get up. No helmets needed!

It was harder for our guide, admittedly. He had to clamber up the slippery rocks without the rope. He's a little bit of a daredevil, though - you'll see a video showing that later. The other waterfalls seemed slightly tame in comparison, though all were breathtakingly beautiful.

Oscar scrambled up far faster than us

View of some of the later waterfalls

Rather than heading back straight away, our guide took us in a different direction. We headed to the Chorros de la Calera, a popular bathing spot under several small waterfalls.