Wednesday 31 August 2022

El Salvador - Black Sands

August 27-28


Hello everyone!


Hannah and I have a list of criteria for a place in which we want to live. It ranges from no winter (Hannah) to being a modestly-sized city with good travel links (me). One got added when we left Malawi: being near the ocean. Time for me to get that sea breeze!


The Pacific Ocean. Go straight and you'll hit Antarctica!

Enjoying our weekend at the beach

That image above may not have been what you were picturing if someone said ‘beach’. Those white sandy beaches you may have been imagining aren’t a thing for El Salvador. Black beaches actually can be found across the world. If you follow this blog, you’ll know that I visited one on a very rainy day in Iceland last summer. The connection between these two countries is a clue for the existence of their black sands…


A section of beach at El Zonte

Reynisfjara beach in Iceland, June 2021

According to scientists far smarter than myself, the black sand is to do with the nearby volcanoes. When volcanic material such as lava is spewed, it cools as it reaches the sea. The subsequent erosion of the lava into fine particles, in addition to other minerals such as basalt, creates the fine black powder. Not all black sand beaches have a volcanic connection but the ones in El Salvador definitely do.


Black sand at El Zonte. El Salvador apparently has 20 volcanoes.


Where there is no sand, there are rocks.
Crabs regularly scuttle across them.


The beach seems to be a big part of life for many here, both expat and local. I know people from school who go every weekend. Even my estate agent seems to go all the time when he’s not helping me fix up the house! Part of the reason is that it is so accessible. Without traffic, I can get from my house to the doorstep of the Pacific Ocean in half an hour.


A shop giving off the surfing vibe in El Zonte


Looking east from our AirBnb, lights are coming on at Playa Mahajual


A group of us were staying at an AirBnB next to the sea, a little bit to the east of one of El Salvador’s most popular beaches: El Tunco. Some had gone out there on the Friday night; owing to the ever-growing list of needs for my house, I wasn’t able to come down until Saturday lunchtime.


Though I missed Friday shenanigans, I did witness the nicest
sunset I've thus seen from my house in Santa Tecla on that Friday

The drive down is comfortable and
quick, costing $20 in an Uber


We weren’t able to access the beach from the surprisingly large house. With sunshine, a swimming pool, eager barbecuers and cold beers, it wasn’t overly missed.


Men at work. I don't possess BBQ
skills so left them to it!


Meat feast. There were also some amazing ribs.


We were able to pop down some rocky steps to touch the ocean. It felt…warm. In my mind, an ocean is quite cool. I could already get a sense of its power and accompanying surfing opportunities just from watching the waves accelerate and crash into the dark, jagged rocks.


Early morning waves crashing beneath a slightly moody sky

What a difference a bright blue sky makes to it!



I ended up sleeping in a hammock that night. Partly it was to give others privacy, rather than invading their rooms (though no one seemed bothered about that), but also…porque no? Why not? The answer came at about 2am when a flash of lightning illuminated the sky and woke me up. Not that I could get up for a little while as I’d lost some feeling in my feet. I then kipped on a slightly-sloped sofa until just after sunrise.


Our communal area, including my beds


The following morning I headed with two friends to El Zonte, another beach about 10 km to the west. Their plan was to have a surf lesson. Mine…wasn’t. Not yet, anyway. Apparently the best time for learning is November to February. Also I don’t have a spare $40 for each lesson. Gotta love inflation.


According to people who know more than me, Zonte isn't as
touristy and built-up as other beach areas such as Tunco

Surf lessons are for an hour and stick to shallower 'white water'


Instead, I had a walk along the beach and a quick dip in the ocean. There were quite a few people, though it wasn’t as packed as I had anticipated. The current can be quite strong, even close to the shore. Have to be careful. 


Waves can get above 3 metres

Some surf, others splash about


Having accessibility to the beach was a big pull factor in our decision to move to El Salvador. The weekend was a lovely, gentle introduction to its sights, sounds and smells. I’m already heading back to the Pacific in a couple of weeks, and can see myself spending many a weekend down here once a car is sorted. 


A stunning Saturday sunset

Me gusta la playa!


Love you all,


Matt

Saturday 27 August 2022

El Salvador - Run like lightning to avoid the lightning!

 August 20


Hello everyone!


I like running. Good for my body, good for my mind, and a great way for me to explore new places. Often it’s meandering along my own route. Occasionally, however, I will participate in the big jamboree of a mass race. This post is about my first one in El Salvador.


One very wet Welshman

The start of the G15 night race

I have been looking for running comrades since arriving two weeks ago, and even before that online. There are running groups but, for various reasons, I haven’t been able to join one yet. I haven’t actually done much running since starting work, owing to a lack of time.


When I have a car, I will probably join this
group each Wednesday evening


My runs in the Parque de Bicentenario had hinted at a running culture. Further research took me to a website listing races in the country. There was a race coming up very soon which started in Santa Tecla. A night run, 15 kilometres, through my new home. Perfect!


A sign in the park


Even with the language barrier, sign-up was easy enough. I was informed in a subsequent email that I needed to collect stuff, such as my bib and chip, from the shopping centre near the start. This was actually the shopping centre next to the hotel I had stayed in for the first week.


English language use: less than limited

My bib and very cool shirt

I asked about a map so I would know where to go. I wasn’t getting one. They assured me that there would be signs. Being able to do much of this conversation without Google Translate made me feel content with my Spanish progress.


This was subsequently published. It didn't help me.


To Saturday then, and a long day of doing nothing and avoiding what everyone was doing (drinking) before arriving at the Multiplaza shopping complex just after 8pm. The race was starting at 9pm, and a few people had already arrived to this sell-out event.


Gatorade sponsor the race, hence the G in G15

Not looking like a G

The air temperature was still pretty warm, a feature of life in the tropics. A bit of wind was beginning to blow and there was lightning far beyond the volcano, but nothing to worry about as I walked up and down the starting area.


This bottle didn't stay up for very long...


Until it did become something to worry about. The temperature suddenly dipped sharply. The thunderous rumbles sounded louder and more ominous. Lightning was illuminating the night sky. Time to take cover in the shopping centre.


I had a look around Sears whilst waiting

People rushing back to take cover before the rain broke


Then, about 30 minutes before the start, it started to rain. Big style. 



No announcements were being made aloud. From asking another runner, I learnt that the race had been delayed by 20 minutes…which they had only announced on Twitter. In their defence, probably not a good idea to use the massive outside speaker system when there was lightning streaking around the city.


That arch you saw earlier, feeling a bit...deflated

The rain eased…slightly. Enough to return to the start line, which looked a bit different to how it had an hour before. As if a military regiment had bulldozed its way through. A metal flagpole almost landed on me as I walked around. Even so, at around 9:25pm, we counted down from diez, nueve, ocho…off we go.


Apparently the storm happened halfway through
the 2019 edition, catching people unawares


There aren’t many photos. My phone was wrapped up in a Ziploc bag and, understandably, there weren’t many photographers willing to brave the elements. The route itself was signposted and all major roads used were closed on our side. The fact that there was traffic heading in the opposite direction was actually helpful as it lit up the occasionally-potholed path. 


Not winning a Pulitzer photography prize for this

5k runners approaching their turning point


The route itself was fairly uninspiring but this wasn’t the time to be taking in sights and sounds. The sounds were the splashing of puddles and slapping of trainers on the tarmac. The former were incredible streaks of lightning which I often saw moving across the sky, looking like a satellite view of a large river with all its tributaries.


Heading back up the hill, I think this is at about 10km


Twice I actually jumped (and swore) whilst running, owing to the brightness of the lightning being followed almost simultaneously by a prolonged, loud roar of thunder. The crowd soon thinned out - it turns out most people did the 5k - and I was left to my own thoughts. Mainly, these revolved around: 

  • feeling a bit cold;

  • feeling sorry for the Uber driver that would have to take me home;

  • marvelling at the resistance of my Ziploc bag, which saved my phone from a watery grave.


While daydreaming, the winner was
finishing in less than 50 minutes


With the city being on the edge of a volcanic slope, it wasn’t the flattest of runs. The continuous incline (admittedly there was a long decline as well), driving rain and regular bursts of lightning made this quite a challenging run. I enjoyed the challenge rather than the run itself. I also appreciated the fact that, rather than being a 15km run, I finished having done 13.5km. Brilliant measuring.


My Strava map for the G15


I don’t enter these events to place highly. I was surprised to find that I came 21st in the entire 15km race. Getting an Uber home took a while, during which time I returned to the Hyatt hotel and spent about five minutes putting myself and my clothes (still on) under the hand dryer. 


My time was just under 1h 13m

Organising a night run towards peak rainy season, when you know that it rains heavily pretty much every night, is madness. It is madness, however, that 1,000 people were happy to participate in. I’m glad I did it, and glad I got to run a bit more in El Salvador. The first of many mad runs here, I’m sure.



Running through the night!

Very much a before picture - nice and dry...

Love you all,


Matt

Tuesday 23 August 2022

El Salvador - Football Fever

August 13


Hello everyone!


I always find it interesting to see what sports are popular in the country I move to. Whilst Korea (baseball), Kazakhstan (hockey), Czech Republic (hockey) and Malawi (netball) all have other passionately-followed sporting endeavours, there is a common link between them all: football.


Watching Santa Tecla FC...through the cars...

Watching football in Malawi in 2017


El Salvador is no different, it seems. The country advertises itself in the airport as ‘Surf City’, which I’m sure I’ll investigate at a later date. However, the number of football shirts you see being worn around shows which sport rules the roost here.


This sign is prominent in the airport

Internet picture of fans at a national team game


Being part of the Spanish ‘Old World’, it is no surprise that Spain’s Primera Liga is keenly followed. An Uber driver told me that most people will pick Real Madrid or Barcelona as their team of choice. This has actually helped when explaining where I’m from, as I reference Gareth Bale. Not sure how you say ‘Wales.Golf.Madrid,’ yet but I’ll get there.


Bale has since moved to LAFC


Owing to its locality, Mexico’s Liga MX also seems reasonably well-followed. I’ve seen a few shirts and games have been on TV when I’ve been out and about in the evenings. It’s at a more ideal time for watching games out here. I’m going to have to get used to British games starting early in the morning.


Big teams include Club America and Necaxa


But what about football in El Salvador? Those of you who know the beautiful game will know that the men have qualified for two World Cups (1970 and 1982). Those who also know about history will know that violence during a qualifier for the 1970 tournament resulted in a brief military conflict between El Salvador and Honduras.


El Salvador lost 10-1 to Hungary at the 1982 tournament,
the biggest defeat in the history of the men's finals

A graphic capturing the key elements of the conflict,
also known as the Hundred Hours War


They are currently ranked 71 in the world (sandwiched between the powerhouses of Iraq and Cabo Verde) and have no players I know. They got to the final stage of qualifying for 2022 in the region (though it’s hard for them to not do that) but never really had a chance of making it to Qatar.

The women’s team are ranked 118.


A picture from the USA playing El Salvador, which was
played in Columbus, Ohio in January. Slight temperature shift...

The top 3 qualified for the World Cup, with 4th going
into an intercontinental playoff. 7th...is nowhere.

There is a league, called the Primera Division. Correction: there is usually a league, called the Primera Division. It’s currently suspended. When I asked about this, the phrase ‘government interference’ came up. It’s a common FIFA rule that if your government starts explicitly messing around in national associations, your national team is suspended. It actually happened to their neighbours, Guatemala, a few years ago.


As you can see, most future
matches are currently 'postponed'


To cut a long, boring story which I don’t fully understand short, a ‘Normalising Commission’ was set up possibly to investigate money laundering by the country’s football federation. This commission was set up by the government, therefore is seen as interference. I think. The commission stopped working just before FIFA’s deadline but the league is still yet to resume.



I was also told that the referees were sort of on strike. This may be stereotyping but having seen what can happen to referees in Latin America, I’m not overly surprised that they might want more money or protection.


An infamous example of a referee bringing
a gun onto the pitch in Brazil in 2015


I have now seen an example of this. The protection, not the violence. To keep players ticking over (and maybe bring in some much-needed cash), some of the teams are organising non-competitive friendly matches with one another. Our local team, Santa Tecla FC, were doing this. Some of the teachers are ardent followers of Tecleños and follow them around the country. Another newbie and I decided to join them.


The Santa Tecla FC flag


We headed west to the Estadio Las Delicias, a not-so-delicious looking stadium with a roof covering half of the main stand. The rest is fully exposed to the elements. In rainy season, it’s a bit of a risk to sit on the concrete steps which resemble seating. We got lucky.


Supporters trying - and failing for a long time - to put up
banners on the fences partitioning the stands from the pitch

Santa Tecla, who aren’t one of the better teams in the Primera, were hosting Alianza. They are from the big city itself, San Salvador, so there is a bit of a rivalry but also a chasm in support and finance. I’d associate it to Brentford playing Chelsea. However, Santa Tecla have won four titles in the last decade, so success is more evenly matched. ‘Titles’ actually work differently in many Latin American leagues. You actually have two per season, an Apertura (opening) and Clausura (closing).


The ticket office. A ticket was $4.


Recently, however, they’ve apparently been rubbish. Having just about scraped to stay in the league last time out, they aren’t seen as the perennial contenders that they were six or seven years ago. This was reflected in the match itself, in which they seemed to play OK but never really looked like winning.


Parts of the pitch were surrounded by cars -
prime parking unless they get hit by the ball!


Interesting moments from this experience? The referee being escorted on and off the pitch by riot police with shields. Me asking a man (who in the dark and with long hair, I actually first thought might be a woman) where I can buy beer and then being later told that the person had been linked to an attempted murder. The constant banging of the drums from the Alianza end (and being told that they were using some fairly blue language in our direction). 


Is it just me or do the riot police
seem quite far away from the ref?


Great experience and I will definitely be back. Assuming they start playing soon…


No rain but lots of mist came across the
pitch, making it quite atmospheric


Love you all,


Matt