Sunday 26 May 2019

Malawi – Managing Malaria


May 14-20

Hello everyone!

Most of my blogs are normally about amazing locations in interesting destinations. This one is a bit different. It’s set in my house. Why? Well I haven’t really been able to leave it for the past week…

Guess which one has malaria?

I woke up on Wednesday (May 15th) feeling OK, if a little cold. I taught my regular day at school, though was raising some eyebrows that I was walking around in glorious sunshine and 25°C in a hoodie. Man flu, I told them. I got through a meeting, forced a bit of food down me (I didn’t seem hungry for some reason) and went home shaking in the car. Still in a hoodie. Feeling increasingly frail and making some strange noises which some would equate with breathing, I hopped into bed. The time had just passed 2:30 pm.

My sanctuary for a few days

Aside from a couple of staggers to the toilet and sending messages to say there was no way I was working on Thursday (May 16th), I was asleep until gone 4am. I woke up, feeling blindingly hot. Understandable as I was fully clothed under a duvet, I thought. Going to the toilet confirmed I was severely dehydrated.

The dark amber colour of my urine makes me think
I was like the character on the right of this picture

I spent the day in bed, counting myself lucky that our power situation is quite good at the moment (either owing to the torrent of rain in 2019 or the upcoming election, not sure which). My head was pounding and sweltering, being soothed by a fan on full blast; my body was shaking under a duvet. Half a piece of toast and lots of water was all I was interested in.

I was drinking over 5 litres of water a day

When Hannah returned from school, I asked if she could take me to the doctor. We have a clinic quite close but everything felt like a struggle, with Hannah even deciding to drop me at the entrance instead of parking. I leant on the desk the whole time I was signing in, unable to independently hold myself up for long.

The clinic at ABC in Area 47

I was shown into a ward a little bit larger than my bedroom. There were 3 beds, each with a mother and young child. Curtains were there but weren’t being used for privacy purposes. Some of the children were incredibly brave; others were screaming murder, particularly when one nurse couldn’t get the needle in properly.

I was given pain relief pills - a few days later, Mini decided that
she wanted to try them too...luckily, she only ate one!

My nurse pulled out a thermometer and stuck it pistol-style next to my sweating head. Oh, your temperature is too high. Too high.” Always reassuring to hear, and I thoroughly enjoyed her repeating it many times. I had my blood taken and was told to wait for the doctor to analyse it. “I hope it’s not malaria,” I whispered at full voice. Weakness had spread to my mouth as well (some would say every cloud has a silver lining). Doctor Brian returned about 20 minutes later and started speaking in a quiet, matter-of-fact tone.

“We have looked at your blood sample. The malaria is stage 3…”

He didn’t really mention the word again for a while, so I had to double check with him. Yes, I did have malaria. Many thoughts crossed my mind, ranging from the downright ridiculous (excellent, something to blog about) to the rational (people get this here all the time, they know what to do) to the concerned (stage 4 is the danger zone and I’m at stage 3?).

4 plus signs is the most severe, though I'm not sure of the details

I was given some pills – paracetamol for the firework display happening in my head, D-ARTEPP for the plasmodium parasite (of course I Googled it, and of course I have no idea what that really means). A few messages – mainly to parents in my class, who were expecting an all-singing, all-dancing assembly the following morning – and then bed.

The number of pills you take is based on weight - I took 1.5 a day

Malaria is an incredibly frustrating disease for someone like me who can’t sit still for two TV episodes, let alone lay prone in a bad for days as you don’t have the energy to do anything else. I’m sure my time could have been served more productively, instead of watching Netflix and napping. But the main advice is drink lots of fluids and rest. Reading made me fall asleep. There was no desire to cook when I didn’t want to eat (my weekend food was almost exclusively little bits of KFC). As for half-marathon training…

One solitary drumstick kept me going for a long time

I improved each day – by Saturday (May 18th) I was able to go to watch a bit of TV next door and stay awake for most of the day. Sunday (May 19th) I could move a lot more freely. By Monday afternoon (May 20th), I felt just about back to normal with limited meds needed as the headaches had died down. Normal enough to write this, anyway. I can’t watch any more TV.

My class made me a card, very sweet! Also showed that
quite a few of them can't spell my name...

Some people may suggest that I wouldn’t have gotten malaria if I was on pills such as Malarone or Doxycycline to prevent the disease from spreading. My common answer is that I’m not here on holiday – I live here, and have done for almost 3 years now. 1000 days. Is it feasible to take preventative medicine for 1000 days? When there’s not much idea about the long-term damage it could do? I’ve also read that I’ve slightly built up some immunity to malaria now, not that this was the nicest way of doing that.

Taking these every day may give me other negative health effects

I’ve always told people that Africa is the best place to get malaria. I have no evidence to back up that bold statement; however, millions of people get it every year. Most survive, even though the number of deaths is frankly terrifying. They know how to treat it. The testing is easily done, either in a hospital or independently from a pack bought at a pharmacy. The treatment pills are accessible, whereas they may not be in an area where malaria isn’t a threat.

Malaria is Latin(ish) for 'bad air', as people used to think the
disease was linked to the air they were breathing

Malawi is one of three African nations trialling a vaccine which, if successful, could be transformative to the continent.

Apparently almost 90% of cases and deaths attributed to malaria happen in Africa

Nasty and frustrating, malaria has a bad reputation for a reason. It kills hundreds of thousands of people every year. Mosquitoes are one of the biggest natural killers of our species through passing on this parasite. If it’s caught early enough, like mine was, then people make a relatively swift recovery – it doesn’t feel swift at the time, but it was just over a week for me.

The podcast I listen to said that malaria has probably killed 50% of
the humans who have ever lived - (very) approximately 54 billion

I feel lucky – lucky that I didn’t play macho man and wanted to go to the doctor; lucky that it was caught early enough to be treated; lucky to get lots of messages of support even from people who I hadn’t told about it. Malaria is a horrible thing and anyone else who gets it in the future has my deepest sympathy and hope that they recover quickly.

Feeling much better - yes, I'm wearing a lemur onesie

Love you all,

Matt

Update – I went back to work on Wednesday. Some of the symptoms (dehydration, headache) were still there but I was able to handle the day comfortably enough.

Wednesday 1 May 2019

Malawi – The Foot of the Magical Mountain

April 18-20

Hello everyone!

Malawi is quite a small country and I’ve travelled around most of its highlights. One yet to be seen, however, is its highest.

The Mulanje Massif

Tea fields with Mount Mulanje in the background


Mount Mulanje is tucked away in the southeastern corner of the Warm Heart of Africa. ‘Tucked away’ is probably the wrong phrase; after all, it soars to 3,002 metres above sea level. Then again, its upper reaches are indeed hidden behind fluffy white clouds.

Mulanje town is about an hour from Blantyre


The view of the Massif on the way to Mulanje town

We weren’t climbing to the peak of Sapitwa on this trip. That name is apparently from ‘sapitidwa’ - ‘the place you cannot reach’. It is supposed to be quite difficult to get to the peak and its views aren’t said to be any more special than others you see as you scale Mulanje. In fact, we hardly climbed it at all, instead content to observe the soaring rock as part of a stunning background.

There are many 'peaks' to scale near the top

The southern side is dominated by tea plantations

Mulanje has many stories and legends. The most interesting to me is the idea that JRR Tolkien climbed the mountain and used its surroundings as inspiration for The Hobbit. Though people think he visited Malawi, the story is unsubstantiated.

The 'Shire' river is nearby!


Malawi would get a lot more tourists if they marketed this as Hobbiton

Below the big rock, much of this land is tea country - one of Malawi’s main exports, some of which will probably have ended up in the brew you’re drinking at the moment. Verdant green bushes stretch for miles, all neatly cropped to hip height. Though a breathtaking sight, one can only imagine what natural beauty lay here before it was razed for tea cultivation.


Tea pickers, with the canopy being their base

What you see in these fields as you walk along the terracotta tracks are off-white canopies, with hessian sacks bobbing up and down nearby. Those sacks belong to the tea pickers, who spend their days hand-picking the leaves come rain or shine. In this particular area, they get paid 1500 Malawian kwacha - $2 - a day.

Workers collect leaves and fill their sack


This man asked for a picture, then laughed when he saw it

This particular area is close to the Mozambican border, away from the relative hustle and bustle of Mulanje town. Driving from the major city of Blantyre doesn’t take too long, and is a spectacular journey as the granite massif looms ever larger from your car. Judging from some of the driving we saw, it may be quite the distraction, though I think the swerving of many saloon cars may have been down to what the drivers were drinking.

Cycling without a helmet on a 'motorway': suicidal

Cycling is the way many get around - this bike belongs to a tea
picker. Not sure how they'll remember where it is...

The incredible panorama is partly due to the sheer steepness of the mountain - many of the towns at its base are over 2 kilometres lower. It probably makes for some steep hiking - I’ve read that reaching the top is a 3 day return trip. Unless you do the Porters Race, a famous half-marathon up and down the mountain which happens every July. Friends who have done it have equated it to a marathon because of the sheer incline.

We walked the beginning of the 'Skyline Loop'

It's a long walk to the top

I imagine it is a place I would visit regularly if I lived in Blantyre. Coming from Lilongwe, it’s likely to be a six-hour journey each way. I am confident that I’ll be back to climb - though probably not run up - Mount Mulanje in the future. For now, I’m more than content to gaze up at the big rock from the vivid tea-studded landscape below.

Acacia trees are currently in bloom across Malawi


I hope I'll be back to do the big climb in the future!


Mulanje


Love you all,

Matt