Wednesday 20 March 2019

Malawi – Contrasts in the North


February 28-March 4

Hello everyone!

Due to the lateness of Easter this year, our school used one of Malawi’s national holidays as the basis for a long weekend. Once again, this offered us the chance to escape the confines of the capital. This time we headed north, to two very different locations.

South Viphya Forest Reserve

Nkhata Bay

Firstly we drove just under 4 hours north to the South Viphya Forest Reserve, a relatively vast area of local and exotic trees. Within the protected area is a village called Luwawa.

The Lodge at Luwawa is difficult to get to without your own car

Luwawa Dam
  
I have been here twice before but this was a very different experience. This time I was visiting in the lush rainy season, whereas my previous trips were in the relatively arid month of August. Oh, and this time I don’t have to look after a class of 9-year-olds…

Flowers like these are rarely seen in August

A Year 5 trip in September 2016

Luwawa is a lovely place with a different climate and atmosphere to Lilongwe. It is situated about 1700 metres above sea level, meaning it is above the malaria zone. It gets pretty chilly at night and dew is prominent in the morning.

One of the walking trails involved balancing over slippery logs

Pine trees dominate many areas of the forest

The weather had transformed the forest and its hills into a scene reminiscent of the British countryside. Rolling green speckled with tall, thin trees was a sight to behold, often in 360’. It was a lovely backdrop for running.

Mini enjoying a stroll through the forest

The trees looked beautiful in the evening light
  
Less lovely was running through those trees when they became clumped and the branches hung low over the earth footpath. In one such instance, I made the mistake of looking at my feet rather than what was directly in front of me. The result? Getting covered by a sticky, icky spider web. Luckily I missed the eight-legged freak, who was quite big…

This was the path I was following. The web was strewn across it.

It didn't come out well on the GoPro but
there's a spider in there somewhere!

Other critters were making themselves seen as well, such as these caterpillars. Larger animals do exist, though they are few in number and none of them are remotely dangerous.

The Very Hungry Caterpillar

Local villagers use the wood for fire
  
Luwawa is tricky to get to without a car so is relatively peaceful and free of tourists. Our next destination, on the other hand, is one of Malawi’s most popular spots.

Mayoka Village has huts dotted precariously on the
cliff face - this is their restaurant and relaxing area

The calm waters are perfect for paddle boarding and kayaking
  
Nkhata Bay is one of the few places in the country which I would describe as having a backpacker vibe. The drive down to it, via the city of Mzuzu, has some spectacular views and very windy roads.

Nkhata Bay is less than 500 metres above sea level -
it's a long way down from Luwawa

Mini enjoyed the ride...

...when she wasn't dozing!

The reason we have a long weekend is because of an event that happened in Nkhata Bay. Martyrs’ Day commemorates the killing of about 40 people who were protesting the arrest of many resistance leaders. Some Malawians believe that the events on this day in 1959 accelerated the drive towards independence from the UK.

Nkhata Bay is predominantly a fishing village

The town itself is at the bottom of the hill -
running up even a little bit of this was very hard!
  
Nkhata Bay is a lovely place to visit, free of the crocodiles which occasionally haunt the southern shores of Lake Malawi.

Most of my time was spent relaxing here...

...or playing with this little one.
  
These two contrasting places show how diverse and magical Malawi is, particularly during the green season. Though difficult for us to realistically reach and enjoy on a regular weekend, both Luwawa and Nkhata Bay are beautiful spots which made our long weekend very relaxing.

Sunset at Luwawa Dam

Sunset at Nkhata Bay

Walking Mini through the forest near Luwawa

Love you all,

Matt