Wednesday 14 October 2020

Malawi – Ranger Danger

 October 3

 

Hello everyone!

 

On March 26th, I left Malawi for the UK. Soon after, the airport closed. At the end of June, my Temporary Employment Permit (TEP) expired. These two things stopped me from returning to the Warm Heart of Africa. For a long, long time.

Mini was waiting for my return for about 6 months

 170 days later, on September 12th, my plane landed at Lilongwe International Airport. The plane looked full, probably owing to the fact that Ethiopian Airlines had scaled back to flying once a week, rather than once a day.

Commercial flights didn't start landing until early September
 

I was curious to see what – if any – Covid protocols the airport had in place. Heathrow had been a mess simply because there were too many people. Addis had been very thorough, to the point where they almost didn’t let a friend on the plane as they argued her Covid test was out-of-date. Lilongwe…started well…

You now walk towards the terminal,
rather than being squashed onto buses

 We were directed to socially distance in five lanes on the tarmac. The first person was put in what I’ll call lane A, the second in lane B, the third in lane C and so on. So far, so good. A men then started talking on a megaphone. Something about giving in pieces of paper, we couldn’t really tell. And what do people naturally do if they can’t hear? They move closer. Bye bye, gaps between people in the lanes.

The gaps quickly disappeared

The bit we all heard was that we needed our temperature taken before entering a nearby tent. They announce they have two temperature guns. For a full flight of probably over 150 people. Two guns. They then directed people in lane A to start having their temperature taken. The second person off the plane, in lane B, doesn’t see this as fair, so then pushes in. Which leads to everyone pushing in…

The holy grail: the tent

I managed to worm my way around the back of the pack and get my temperature checked. 35.4’C. Almost hypothermia. In Malawi in September?? I then proceed to the tent entrance, where they ask me for a piece of paper filled in on the plane. Oh, and then they ask me for my temperature. No proof needed. I think it would be easy to skip the scrum around the gun.

You could probably say any number below 37
and be allowed to proceed 

We were then told that there were two lanes in the tent. Left lane if you have had a Covid test, right lane if you haven’t. Even though in both London and Addis you had to prove you’d had a test in order to be allowed on the plane…So both lanes got used. My heart skipped a beat when, instead of being sent left to immigration, I was sent straight to another tent. The man there looked at my test, queried why I was at the tent, then said, “Proceed.” Brilliant.

Waiting inside the tent - this will be interesting
when it becomes very hot or starts raining...

Immigration without actually having a TEP wasn’t as bad as feared, partly because I had managed to beat the crowd into the terminal. A man looked at my government certificate, sent to me a few days before, ushered me to the side, completed a new form and then sent me back to immigration. The man stamped my new form, rather than my passport, and told me to go to the regional immigration office on Monday – 2 days later. I reminded him I was supposed to quarantine for 14 days. “Good point,” he replied.

My third quarantine of the year!

Has much changed? Not massively. People wear masks in certain areas, like banks and shopping centres. Hand washing stations are outside most shops geared towards those with money. Take a trip through the more local areas, however, and you’ll do well to see a mask.

Lots of signs, generally adhered to
in shops in places like Gateway Mall
 
Handwashing buckets like these are a common sight

By all accounts, Malawi hasn’t been hit badly by Covid in terms of cases and deaths. A lack of testing undoubtedly makes the numbers hard to believe but it doesn’t seem as if there is news of many more people being in hospital. Life is different, but not massively so.

Returning to a car which doesn't work -
some things will never change...

A line for the bank at the end of the month - with social distancing,
this probably would have ended up in a different city!

Well, apart from in school. We’ve had to make some quite drastic changes in order to reopen on site. It’s gone well so far, though.

An example of how a classroom is now set up

Most of our teaching will now be done outside

My first venture out of quarantine, when I was kept fed by friends and driven insane by looking after two dogs, was linking back up with my running group.

I am looking after our friend's dog, Maxi, as well as Mini

Definitely worth using one of my 3 red meat days this year
to have lots of bacon and sausage after a 16km run! 

The following week, we were invited to run a half-marathon in support of International Ranger Day. One global effect of Covid has been economic turmoil, which has affected most across the world. Rangers who protect animals from poachers are no exception. To keep them in jobs, we ran as part of a fundraising initiative. The Wildlife Ranger Challenge.

Starting our 'ranger run' in Mbabzi


Our route was made by the farm owner
and thankfully easy to follow!

Once I’d gotten over the irritation at having to wake up before 5am on a Saturday, it was a lovely morning. We were on the western edge of Lilongwe in an area called Mbabzi.

Con: should definitely be in bed
Pro: gorgeous sunrise


Not much city life out here

Even with the early alarm, starting at 6am was definitely the right call. It was hot by the time our running group returned back to the farm where we started. I felt for those who had signed up for the 21km walk, it must have been scorching for them towards the end.

A farm building in Mbabzi

 

Jacarandas are showing off their stunning
purple colours at this time of year

 

Our event raised MWK 885,000 – well over $1000. Whatever we raised was to be matched by two conservation charities. We also received pictures the following day of the rangers we were supporting, in two areas of Malawi, running their own 21km route. With 25kg backpacks and full ranger gear. I would have collapsed early on, I think. Very impressive.

Poachers wouldn't be too worried about us...

 

...but should be about them!

 

It felt like we had left the relative bustle of the city, even though we weren’t too far away. It was a lovely, if tiring, way to spend a morning and helped some very important people protect the wildlife of Malawi.

A beautiful and different Saturday morning run

 

 

Love you all,

 

Matt

Sunday 9 August 2020

England – A domestic summer like no other


June 19-August 5

Hello everyone!

My last post shared the first ten weeks or so back in the UK. I was teaching during most of this time, waking up before 6am on weekdays and often spending much of my day in front of a screen. Our school year finished on June 19th which means one thing – summer holiday!

Summer is this way!

On a ramble under the Ouse Valley viaduct

Not that I’d be going anywhere far. Seems silly to be back in the UK for me and my family’s mental benefit only for yours truly to then start gallivanting around and potentially bringing a virus into my mum and dad’s house. Even with restrictions beginning to ease, there was no justification for me to go far. Even after doing a Covid swab test…

What a way to wake yourself up on a Monday morning...

Uncomfortable but not as bad as I made it out to be.
Tested negative, in case you were wondering.



I didn’t actually have much planned for this summer. My idea was to stay in Malawi and do the Porter’s Run, a 23km race up and down Malawi’s biggest mountain, and perhaps go to South Africa for a couple of weeks. Nothing booked though for a change, which worked out well. So really I haven’t been too disappointed to be spending my summer in Sussex.

The horses seem sad that I'm in Sussex, but I'm fine with it

I commonly run past this lovely little church in Streat

The thought of sitting around doing nothing for days and weeks on end terrifies me, though. I need to keep busy. There was the organising and decluttering of the garage, front room and shed…

Before...

...and after.

 …precariously picking apples from the tree in our garden and giving the hedges a trim…

Look at that complete lack of PPE 

The Sussex Chainsaw (Hedge) Massacre.

…giving my face a much-needed trim…

10 weeks of beard...

...gone down the drain. Well, it clogged the drain for a bit.

…getting my head a much-needed trim from my sister when she came to visit…

It seems my sister enjoyed this moment of power...

She did well. With the hair. She can't really
do anything about the face, sorry.

…and doing the usuals of long-distance running to make space for lots of excellent home cooking.

Running on the South Downs Way.
Not all of it, it's over 100 miles long!

A surprisingly amazing veggie cobbler - my best cooking of the summer

There was quite a bit of time in front of a computer. I used this time to scan family photos. All hard copy photos since 1984. Thousands. There are some gems in there…

You don't want to imagine the whole pile

If I need a career change, I could always become a model

My 5th birthday party in the early 1990s -
wearing clothes that belong in the 1970s...

But most of these were within the confines of the house. Being restricted to the house would have driven us insane. Each week we decided to travel to a relatively close place of interest. Though they have lived here for almost six years, my parents haven’t explored much of Sussex – this was our chance to explore! And travel!

Hay bale near Streat

A swan in the ground of Hever Castle

First up was a nearby spot on the South Downs called Devil’s Dyke. The only devilish bit about it is walking around it when the mercury is pushing up towards 30°C at 10am.

It is a 100 metre deep valley. We went down and up, via a forest.

There are many beautiful flowers on the South
Downs, which Devil's Dyke is a part of

Well, there’s also the bit where we may have gotten slightly lost and scaled a gate covered with barbed wire in order to continue…

I was impressed my parents followed my illegal trespassing manoeuvre 

We bought these ice-creams from a van. I was worried as we didn't have
any cash but they took contactless. Have I been in Malawi and
away from modern tech for too long??


We live quite close to the sea so went south the following week to Seaford Head to see the Seven Sisters. Less a collection of blood-related women, more a set of stunning chalk cliffs. Bit windy on the coast as you can see…

The series of peaks are between Seaford and Eastbourne

Bit breezy by the sea!

Next was a bit of history: Hever Castle. This was our first trip to an ‘enclosed’ National Trust site and offered an interesting insight into how these places would cope with Covid. It was the first time we ventured beyond the Sussex border, driving into Kent. The castle itself is actually quite small. You can go in but numbers are extremely limited. It was essentially one-in-one-out, and we would have queued for well over an hour. The socially distanced queue for a coffee was much quicker. Quite a few kids were there (clearly not in Reception, Year 1 or Year 6 – I think…) and were struggling to stay socially distanced from swans which wanted their picnic lunches. I found it hilarious.

Built in the 13th century, a long time before Covid!

The castle is famous for being the place
where Anne Boleyn lived in her youth

The highest point in the county (well, East Sussex) is nearby: Ditchling Beacon. I walked here in May from the house but running to and from it would be too far for my little legs to pump. One morning my parents dropped me off in the nearby town of Lewes (I say nearby, it’s about 10km away) and I ran up to the beacon. I read my footpath map slightly wrong. Easily corrected…by running over a horse racing track. Quite steep in places, but a lovely run to the top.

Don't be fooled - this was uphill. For a while...

Over time, dew ponds have emerged on the hills near the top

Our most recent trip was to a viaduct which dates from the very early Victorian era. Turns out I’ve unwittingly been on this viaduct – trains to London pass over it.

The viaduct is 29 metres high

Ignore me, look at the cool pattern made by the supports!

Our furthest trip, the only time we’ve really been out of county, was to see my brother’s family. They live in London so we met halfway at Box Hill in Surrey. This wasn’t one of the hotter, sunnier days – probably a good thing as it was busy enough anyway.

The roads up to Box Hill are popular with cyclists.
Walking was fine for us.

Hopping across the water. Good thing no one slipped, it was quite cold!

I feel like I’ve explored more of Sussex than I ever did of Cardiff and its surrounds when growing up. My parents are in a lovely spot and have plenty of places to visit nearby. Certainly enough to satisfy the ‘travel’ bug for a summer. And as my work permit still hasn’t come through yet (over eight months after signing a contract extension), I’ll still have the chance to explore more of Sussex when I'm not trying to teach 10-year-olds over the internet!

Almost as importantly, the pub is open again!

Not the plan, but a lovely summer

Love you all,

Matt