Tuesday 24 October 2017

South Africa – Gazing the Garden Route

October 16-19

Hello everyone!

For most of our week in South Africa, we were based in the coastal town of Mossel Bay. Occasional high-rises loom over the enticing Indian Ocean breakers which lap the smooth sand. Not that we would be swimming; the number of great white sharks in this area is said to be quite high.

Santos Beach, in a cloudy Mossel Bay

We went straight...for about 2 metres, then
lay out our towels, quite far from the sea

The town is also often known as the entry point to the so-called ‘Garden Route’. It’s often described as a ‘must-see’ for people who visit South Africa, which is strange as it’s actually quite hard to pinpoint what is a ‘must-see’ aspect of it.

Major cities lie some way to the west (Cape Town) and east
(Port Elizabeth) of the Garden Route

Surfing is a popular attraction on the Garden Route,
even with the sharks
 The route stretches for about 300 kilometres eastwards along the southern coast. Having had the guided tour of Mossel Bay from our friend Nerina, we ventured out each day to find places of interest. Mainly beaches.

Wilderness

Knoetzie

A short drive from the main town along the route, George, is the wonderfully-named village of Wilderness. The change in the landscape is as stark as it is stunning. Thick forests tower above the water, just a few hundred metres away from the shore.

A fresh catch for lunch

It wasn't as warm as it looks - we had to sit behind a dune
for protection from the wind

That forest is, bizarrely, shaped like a map of Africa. If you squint. Just as impressive was the sight of paragliders negotiating the strong winds to land from the headland onto the beach below.

And the bit with no power...that's Malawi!

Two of these gliders seemed destined to crash at one point,
 though probably missed each other by a comfortable margin

The halfway point of the Garden Route is a sleepy town called Knysna. The area contains a lovely, calm lagoon.

Small boats moored around the pretty lagoon at Knysna

The calmness dissipates somewhat when you see the lagoon from above and observe where the water enters the lagoon. The ‘Two Heads’ guard the scenic town and showcase the power of the waves when they crash and clash against the rugged rocks.

Imagine a boat from 400 years ago trying to enter that...

The Heads are also described as 'the resting place of many
fishermen'. Lovely thought, that...

Near Knysna is a place called Knoetzie which I had seen recommended on a travel blog. It looked simple enough on Google Maps…

17 minutes, they said...try double that.

…whereas the reality was slightly different and unsuitable for our little Polo…

One of the smoother sections of gravel KP undertook

The township at the entrance

The beach itself, down a series of uneven, haunting steps, seemed abandoned. An old castle hung precipitously on the edge of the higher land above. A hidden treasure of a place, though a bit eerie.

Step through to find beach bliss...

Buildings are few and far between, not to mention unique
in architectural style

Exploring Knoetzie

I guess the allure of the Garden Route is the ‘route’: the journey. The allure is certainly strong, though we’d have enjoyed it more if the temperatures had been stronger as well.

A mountainous pass between Outdshoorn and George

Rolling down a hill from Wilderness, with a lagoon on the right

The views when driving are spectacular, just as they were when we were driving along Route 62 on our way to Mossel Bay. Once again, some lovely drives around this lovely landscape.

Windy, wavy and wonderful


Love you all


Matt

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