Cuba – Holy Cigars!

December 12-14

My heart is in Havana, Havana-na-na-na.

Camilla Ceballos’ global hit about Cuba’s capital has once more brought it global attention. It didn’t need to; Havana has culture bursting out of its seams.

Street art in Havana

A mojito

Let’s cover one of the things people think Havana doesn’t have first before diving into the fun factory. Contrary to popular belief, you can get online in Cuba’s capital…in designated public areas. Parks, mainly. Seeing parks packed at night with people huddled over their phones and laptops was funny but also a sad indictment of how cut off Cuba has been from the rest of the world. It made my Christmas bombshell easier to keep – no one could post pictures of me pottering around in Havana to spoil the surprise.

The park on San Rafael boulevard is a Wi-Fi hotspot in Havana

People getting their Wi-Fi fix at midnight

The silence of these parks, with everyone focused on the screen, was striking, particularly as Havana is a city of noise. The edges of the plazas often have bars, from which a steady stream of chatter and music flows. Cuban music is everywhere.

A man strumming away in Plaza del Armas

Tourists are often serenaded for tips in restaurants in Havana Vieja

I didn’t see a ukulele being used during my time in Havana but there are many other instruments used in a stereotypical performance. On the night I met my travelling group, I got to use some of these after being called up to stage. I’d prefer to focus on my abilities when using the shaker and drums, rather than my attempt at dancing.

Being taught to shake my maraca and my body to the beat

Performing to an audience isn’t for everyone. Luckily in Cuba they have a cure for stage fright: rum. Rum of all kind and colour can be found in every street. It even gets served in coffee! More commonly, people will have their rum in the form of a mojito or cuba libre.

A mojito consists of white rum, sugar,
lime juice, soda water and mint

Havana Club is the most popular brand of rum

The stereotype of Cuban culture would be that you have your rum – neat or in cocktail form – with a chunky cigar. I’ll talk more about cigars when I leave Havana, though the capital does have the longest cigar…in the world. 90 metres in length, it would take a lot of time – and lung capacity – to smoke it.

These are two of the longest cigars ever produced; the bottom
one is the longest

The creator of the world's longest cigar

This cigar is found in the San Carlos fort, near to which is a large statue of Jesus. It was finished 6 days before the revolution was declared successful in 1959, which some here cling to as having meaning. The more popular joke is that they made this particular depiction look Cuban – apparently his hands are shaped so that they would naturally hold a bottle of rum in one hand and a cigar in the other.

The statue is 20 metres high

Cigar in the right hand?

Catholicism is one of many legacies left by the Spanish, who claimed Cuba in the sixteenth century and held it until the Spanish-Cuban-American War in 1898. Another are the beautiful plazas dotted around Havana Vieja (Old Havana), the eastern side of the city.

The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, which is now a museum

Plaza Vieja

Religion is an interesting topic in Cuba. Catholicism dominates, with others believing parts of the Afro-Cuban religion known as Santeria. There is one mosque in the country, built in the last decade for Muslim foreign dignitaries to use. All of these, however, go against the political philosophy Cuba has championed for the last 60 years.

Plaza de la Catedral

A piece in an art museum depicting the Cuban flag

Cuba focused on a socialist philosophy during this time, and religion doesn’t really fit. Consequently there was tension between church and state, with party members not being allowed to go to church and Christians not being able to progress in the party or society.

In spite of the consequences, many were still proud
Catholics during the Fidel Castro era

A narrow street in Centro Habana

This was one of many policies introduced by Cuba’s leader, Fidel Castro, who ruled from 1959 until 2006. To say he was a divisive figure in world politics would be an understatement. Some see him as a hero, others see him as a despot. He died in 2016 and a non-Castro was elected as President earlier this year. You don’t actually see his face, owing to the idea here that you don’t portray leaders who are still alive (this is a massive contrast to Central Asia and many African countries, where the picture of the current President has to be visual in every house and office). The main place you’ll find Fidel is on one of the banknotes of Cuba’s ‘local’ currency.

The CUC currency (left) used by tourists is worth 25 national (right)

A photo from an art museum, depicting the sorrow at
Fidel Castro's funeral in 2016

Our guide talked about Fidel’s ‘mistakes’ during his time in charge, and gave an example of how the challenge of religion was rectified. Religious holidays were banned as part of the revolution and it remained that way until Pope John Paul II visited in 1998. Thereafter, Christmas was made a national holiday in Cuba. Some decorations were visible, though a lack of resources spares Havana from becoming too ostentatious.

Merry Christmas is Feliz Navidad in Spanish

In spite of an embargo, plenty of 'interesting'
Christmas decorations are visible in Cuba

That lack of resources, mainly due to the trade embargo placed on the country by the United States, has become part of the culture as well. Many good are recycled and fixed when most of us would send them to the scrapheap. Tourism is increasing, as evidenced by the cruise ships docked in Havana’s harbour, which will bring some much-needed cash to the country. Maybe then they can invest in the technology needed to give people internet connectivity in places other than hotels and public parks.

Havana has berths for two cruise ships at present;
this may expand to 6 in the next few years

A man staring into the distance on the Malecon

What I’ve enjoyed most about Havana is walking around the city. It has so much potential, so much character…and so much music. It may be a tricky place to live - and certain areas are foul with the sight and stench of rubbish - but it is a lively capital. I can certainly see why many people’s hearts are in Havana. Havana-na-na-na.

A man playing an early morning tune near the Malecon

Jesus' view of Havana

Love you all,

Matt