Sunday 4 July 2021

Iceland - Reykjavik's Rainbow Roads

June 19-20, 28-29

I’ve taken you around the island of Iceland. But what of its capital city?

One of the city's icons is its yellow box lighthouse

The rainbow road leading up to the big church

Reykjavik is where most Icelanders live. That’s not a generalisation: over two-thirds of its population reside in the capital area. 

The vast majority don't live in houses like this

I'd also imagine most don't each fish and chips
as much as I did during my time here

It is a compact place, however, and easily walkable. This is a pleasant enough thing to do in the sunshine and mild June temperatures (it reached 14’C when I was there at the end of the month). I imagine it is less pleasant on a windy winter’s day, when the Sun may not rise until close to midday.

Tjornin is the pretty lake which is
one of downtown's centrepieces

This is Tjornin on a sunnier day

To give you an idea of the long summer
days, I took this picture shortly before 4am

Quite a few people walk, particularly downtown. A sizeable number will use a different method of transport: an electric scooter. You can often find these unattended on pavements or in parks around the city. They’re available through an app and it doesn’t seem as though people think they’ll get stolen anytime soon.

No, not this...

...this. Most of the scooters are yellow. 

The city - and country - feels incredibly safe, which is recognised by the fact that Iceland is
regularly voted as the safest country in the world. The picture below shows the office of the
country’s prime minister. It is on a main road and next to a bus stop. Can you imagine being
able to get that close to the White House?

This is Iceland's parliament building. Seriously.

Could easily knock on the door and chat to the PM!

Considering how young the actual land of Iceland is, Reykjavik has a lot of history. Legend
has it that one of the first settlers threw large pieces of timber off his boat when approaching
the island, deciding to build a home wherever they landed. I’m sure you can guess where…

I got the idea of ancient Egypt from this art.
We're not talking that old...

These supposed timber logs could have landed here 

Recent construction work has unearthed some rather old buildings in the city. The
Settlement Exhibition is based around a recently-discovered Viking hall or longhouse
which dates from the 10th century.

The hall is in the basement of the exhibition
(Lonely Planet picture, mine was blurry)

This map shows the most recently discovered islands:
among them New Zealand, Madagascar and Iceland

A lot of the history is connected to the sea, which is demonstrated in many of Iceland’s
numerous museums. The Maritime Museum focuses on important events, such as the
shipwreck of the Milkmaid in 1659, and the cultural importance of the sea. The board
game shown below is one of many examples of this.

The shipwreck has been investigated since the mid-1990s

Icelandic sea monopoly, maybe? 

The National Museum of Iceland also talks extensively about the importance of the sea
whilst charting the story from first settlement to independence, via being ruled by Norwegian
and Danish kingdoms.

Paraphernalia from Iceland's first day as a
republic: June 17th, 1944

Weapons from the Viking era of settlement

Walking around the coast itself is a pleasure, though looking back at the city’s skyline
doesn’t give you the prettiest view.

The Sun Voyager landmark on the northern shore

The futuristic building is the new concert hall, which
apparently cost five times its budget

That skyline is often dominated by the Hallgrímskirkja, an enormous church on top of a hill.
The building is modelled off a combination of the Chrysler Building, the Empire State
Building...and Iceland’s hexagonal basalt columns.

It took 40 years to finish the construction

It is almost 75 metres tall

The cool picture you can get of this church is from the bottom of the hill in downtown. The
road is painted as a rainbow. This was originally done as a temporary celebration for gay
pride; it proved so popular that the city made it permanent.

There's also an epic hopscotch street

Residents , even the mayor, helped to paint the road

Reykjavik is quite a colourful city. Other streets have different designs and some of the walls
have been ornately graffitied. This apparently was because people were vandalising the
walls. ‘If you can’t beat them, join them’ was the pervasive attitude, with positive and creative
results. Many of the buildings also have a varied palette. I’d imagine the colour raises spirits
on those long, dark winter days.

Houses aren't allowed to be built of wood now, after a
fire in the past. This is one of the few that survived.

Icelandic mountains showing ther strength

All that learning and walking is thirsty work. Alcohol is prohibitively expensive here unless
you know a couple of tricks. One is the Vinbudin - the government liquor shop.
Supermarkets (such as Bonus, which is represented by a pig) aren’t allowed to sell it so
most will go to these places to stock up. There’s only one downtown. 

I did actually see one Iceland supermarket in Iceland!

These places often keep short hours
so you have to plan your visit

The shop is on an old street full of bars. Almost every bar has a ‘happy hour’, in which
drinks become more affordable. A beer drops from £8 to about £5 for example. There’s a
clever app which tells you which places are currently having their happy hour time.

The American Bar is where I watched Euro matches,
which were often on during happy hours

There are plenty of reasons to come back to Reykjavik and Iceland. One would be to see
those cute animals I didn’t see this time; another would be to experience winter here. This
is the time when you can see the famous ‘northern lights’, when the skies above the country
illuminate with a show of spectacular solar energy. Being summer, I had to content myself
with the Aurora Reykjavik, a multimedia experience in the capital.

The experience shows many examples of
the northern lights around the country

This shows the zone in which you're likely to see the
aurora borealis - Iceland is very much in the zone

A cool (if expensive) place to spend time, the world’s most northerly capital city has a lot
going for it. The alternative to being here was eleven days in a UK hotel under government
surveillance. I’m so happy that things worked out to allow me to visit and enjoy Iceland
instead.

Virtual reality allows you to 'see' the northern lights

Liquorice is surprisingly popular here -
the grey is salted liquorice ice-cream


Love you all, 

Matt

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